Installing an exterior french drain by David Beaulieu

What are French drains? When are they useful?

If your neighbor’s land stands at a higher elevation than yours, you may be experiencing problems with excessive moisture on your property. Water from your neighbor’s property may be running down the slope (just one of the challenges of landscaping on a hill) and spilling onto your property. You need better yard drainage. One option in such cases is installing French drains.

When some people speak of a “French drain,” they refer to a trench in which a drain pipe is laid, but the traditional French drain is basically a trench filled with gravel.

Difficulty: Average

Time Required: Depends on extent of water flow and ground to traverse.

Here's How:

1. Determine a spot on your property where the excess water coming off the slope could be re-routed. Determining such a location may end up being a matter of choosing “the lesser of two evils.” If water is currently spilling out at your house foundation and excessive moisture threatens to damage it, obviously almost any other spot would be preferable. The ideal French drain leach field would be an out-of-the-way area with sandy soil, through which the water could percolate harmlessly....
2. But be sure your attempt at yard drainage will not adversely impact anyone else’s land. Otherwise, installing a French drain could land you a lawsuit! Check your city codes before digging. Another preliminary step that could save you headaches later is checking with your local utilities concerning the whereabouts of underground cables and the like, so that you'll know where not to excavate for a French drain. There's a quick way to check: just dial the Dig Rite phone number. 
3. Locate the best area for a French drain. Find an area along the slope on your side of the boundary where excavation would be easiest for your French drain (i.e., free of obstructions). Trench lines should be plotted out before you begin digging French drains. You need to create your own mini-slope to carry the water down to its destination. A grade of 1% (i.e., a drop of 1 foot for every 100 feet in length) is often recommended for French drains; others advise a drop of 6" for every 100'. Getting the water to go where you wish is essential for improving yard drainage; the grade will facilitate your efforts. 
4. So how do you measure the grading for a French drain? Pound 2 stakes into the ground to mark the beginning and end of the trench. Tie a string tightly to one of the stakes, then run it over to the other stake and tie it off there, too, but loosely (for now). Attach a string level to the string, adjusting the string to get it level. Once it’s level, tighten the string at the second stake. Make sure the string is taut. Now begin digging the trench. As you dig, you’ll be able to measure down from the string to make sure you are achieving the desired grade for your French drain. 5.
5. Check yourself as you go. For instance, if the trench for the French drain is to be 100’ long and the grade 1%, then by the time your trench is 50’ long, it should be 6" deeper than where you began excavating. 6.
6. You'll be digging a horizontal trench across the length of the slope. The digging is the most labor-intensive part of installing French drains. The trench will slope down toward the area where you've determined the water will be re-routed (if it doesn’t quite reach that spot, you’ll have to dig a connecting ditch down to it). Trench width will depend on the magnitude of your moisture problem. Bigger moisture problems call for wider trenches. Small trenches are often dug to a width of 5”-6”. 7.
7. Before applying gravel, line the trench with landscape fabric. The landscape fabric will keep dirt out of the gravel. You want to preserve the porosity of the gravel, which promotes percolation of water through it -- one of the underlying principles that make covered French drains work. Shovel a coarse gravel onto the landscape fabric. Wrap the ends of the landscape fabric over the top of the gravel layer. 
8. You now essentially have a tube of landscape fabric filled with gravel. To fill in the rest of the trench, shovel in a layer of coarse sand, cover it with more landscape fabric, add 4" of topsoil and lay sod on top. Your French drain is complete!

Tips:

1. Hire a surveyor. If you don't think you can get the grading right for a French drain on your own (Step 3), hire a surveyor. Or simply hire a pro to do the whole job.
2. Hire a backhoe operator. If you're not inclined to dig a French drain trench by hand, you could hire a backhoe operator. But that will jack up the cost for the French drain -- not only for the digging, but for the extra gravel you'll need (since a backhoe can't dig as small a trench as can a person wielding a spade). Another alternative is suggested by reader, Matt Fisher, noting that "many rental shops rent trenchers now. These machines cut very thin trenches...."
3. Bigger not necessarily better. If you can get away with a small trench (Step 6) for your French drain, you'll save money, as there'll be less gravel needed to fill the trench.
4. Terminology. "Gravel" is a term that can be used differently in different regions. Here, "gravel" refers to small pieces of rock.
5. Where to channel the runoff. The most difficult problem in installing French drains can be figuring out where to channel the water. For possible solutions, consult this article on what to do with runoff.

Attic Inspections

Throughout this  I will highlight the different systems found in the attic, followed by the main problems home inspectors identify during the attic inspection. In order for the attic space to function well, the combination of insulation, ventilation and vapor barrier must work in harmony. However, it is all too common for one or more of these components to be flawed, which ultimately leads to any number of conditions.

The attic is also a space where other systems such as the structure, roof sheathing, electrical, heating and plumbing concerns can be discovered…which makes this space one of the most important areas of the home to investigate.

Structure – The roof and ceiling structure can be seen in the attic. Sometimes we discover that structural members are leaning, broken, rotting, split, sagging, cut or improperly installed. These are the issues that would warrant further investigation or repairs, depending on the specific situation.

Roof Sheathing – This is the main support for the materials that cover the roof, such as the shingles. We look at the sheathing to see if we can notice any leakage, water stains, wood rot or fungal staining. (Mold)

Electrical – It is not uncommon to see electrical wires running through the attic. We want to make sure that the wires have been properly secured to the structural members and out of the way. However, I see wires running in all sorts of directions laid out on the insulation and fully exposed. This can pose a serious fire hazard especially if rodents find and chew on the wires. Sometimes pot lights are covered with insulation, which could be a fire hazard if the lights are not containing the letters IC, which stands for insulated ceiling.

Heating – Chimneys and vents often run through the attic on their way up through the roof. Often, the connections are not secure or the fully discharging out through the sheathing. Metal chimneys could be rusted from condensation or missing a fire stop at the bottom.

Plumbing – Much like chimneys and heat vents, plumbing stacks run through the attic and on through to the outside. Home inspectors pay attention to plumbing stacks that discharge their gasses into the attic area. This is fairly evident from the gas odors… and confirmed when we can actually see it.

Insulation, Vapor Barrier and Ventilation Concerns:

Insulation – The insulation is meant to keep the living space below the attic warm. The most common issues I find are too little, inconsistent, compressed or missing insulation. The main concern is heat loss, which leads to higher energy costs. So, it makes a lot of sense to ensure that the attic space has adequate and consistent insulation.  When the insulation has been compressed or wet from leaks or condensation it loses its R-value (The greater the R-vale, the better insulation can resist heat loss)

Sometimes however, adding too much insulation in the wrong areas of the attic can be problematic as well, because it will make the attic colder, but not necessarily limit the moist air that leaks into the attic (this is what vapor barrier is for). As a result, condensation builds up on the wood members because the warm moist air mixes with the cool attic air before it can be vented out. If left unchecked for long enough, rot damage will happen.

In older homes, there is the possibility of finding dangerous insulation, such as vermiculite containing asbestos. When disturbed, the tiny particles of asbestos can get lodged into the lungs leading to cancer, years down the road. I recommend that the vermiculite be tested. If the test reveals that there is a dangerous percentage of asbestos found, then a Hazardous materials company must be called in to remove it. This can be very disruptive and expensive, depending on the time it takes and the overall amount to be removed.

Vapor Barrier – When installed correctly, the vapor barrier is essentially what stops the warm, moist air from the living space from entering the attic from below. In cooler climates the vapor barrier must be placed on the warm side (below the attic insulation). The main problems we find includes incomplete, incorrect placement and vapor barrier that is missing altogether. Really, any opening from the living space below can lead to moisture related problems, depending on the temperature and ventilation in the attic. Some common leakage points include, plumbing attacks, pot lights, vents, ducts and around chimneys. Subsequently, a properly weather-stripped and insulated attic hatch with vapor barrier is one of the best ways to reduce the heat and airflow into the attic.

Ventilation – Proper ventilation is the last piece of the puzzle.  The different types of attic vents include ridge, (at the very top, along the length of the roof peak) roof, soffit, and gable vents. Poor ventilation usually happens as a result of improper installation. One condition I frequently discover is when soffit vents have been blocked by insulation. Other times there are not enough roof vents installed. Ideally, about 50% of the ventilation should be located in the soffit areas.

Again, if the attic ventilation has been obstructed or there is or inadequate ventilation then condensation will take place, leading to mildew, mold and rot damage.

I have also seen other problems in the attic such as broken bathroom vents, laundry exhaust vents discharging into the soffit areas, torn vapor barriers, bee hives and other pests, just to name a few.

What the Heck is PEX

PEX Piping vs. Copper Piping

If you are like the rest of us non-plumbers, then there is a good chance that you don't know which plumbing pipe is better. You may not even know what a PEX pipe is. Relax: Not many of us do. We're not plumbers, but maybe it's time that increase our basic knowledge so that we know what we are getting and whether it is something we truly want. Once you know the basics, you'll feel more comfortable to find a plumber to help you with your piping needs.

Now you're probably wondering what PEX piping is. Well, it is cross-linked polyethylene pipe. After going through several processes, the material becomes durable for extreme temperatures (hot or cold), creep deformation which happens from long-term exposure to stress, and chemical attack from acids, alkalies and the like. All of this makes PEX an excellent piping substance for hot and cold water systems, especially since PEX is flexible and well adapted for temperatures below freezing all the way up to 200 degrees Fahrenheit.

As mentioned above, PEX is a good plumbing material because it is flexible and easy for plumbers to install. PEX is also resistant to breaks in cold weather and has fewer joints, bringing your costs down.

Since copper piping has been around for decades, we know that the metal is durable and flexible, making it easy to install - especially compared to iron pipes. Copper piping also provides a biostatic atmosphere, making it difficult for bacteria to grow inside of it, which is an important health consideration.

Copper also resists corrosion and is unaffected by ultraviolet rays, which means it can be used for outside needs. This is unlike PEX pipes, which are affected by ultraviolet rays and therefore should not be used outside. However, copper can corrode due to the pH of the water if it is too acidic or too basic for the pipes. But just because it corrodes doesn't mean that the water is bad for you. Try to think of it like this: the Pacific Northwest region of the US and, of course, Canada, has some of the best drinking water in the world, but that very same water has a corrosive effect on the pipes.

The choice between PEX and copper is solely yours, but keep in mind a few of the advantages and disadvantages of each system before you decide.

Advantages of PEX:

• Adaptable and easy-to-use plumbing system
• Can be used with hot and cold water
• Can also be used with metal and PVC piping
• PEX has fewer fittings, making it faster to install and with less of a chance to leak
• PEX is more burst-resistant due to its flexibility to expand and contract
• It has a shutoff valve at each supply line, making it more convenient for you when you have to get repairs done
• PEX can have a pressure balanced system
• Since it is flexible, the pipes can be bent around most corners and usually won't need a coupling or fitting

Disadvantages of PEX:

• It cannot be used outside
• Cannot be recycled, due to its shorter life use
• It provides an impermeable membrane that may allow the possibility of water contamination
• The pipes may be damaged if left outside for a long period of time

Advantages of Copper:

Durable and flexible, making it easy to install Safer in natural disasters Weather and bacteria-resistant Resists corrosion, more so than other metals Unaffected by ultraviolet rays, so it can be used outside Copper does not release toxic gases in a fire because it resists burning In earthquakes, the slightly elastic pipes flex so that they don't snap Copper is recyclable, making it a more sound environmental choice

Disadvantages of Copper Piping

• Can corrode
• Has become expensive
• With higher levels of copper from corrosion, water can have a metallic taste
• Copper can freeze and break during cold water

Compare the prices of PEX and copper piping to help understand the

differences between the two:

PEX Prices 
3/8" - $0.38
1/2" - $0.40
5/8" - $0.62
3/4" - $0.76
  1" - $1.26

Copper Prices 
3/8" - $4.87
1/2" - $5.67
5/8" - $7.31
3/4" - $10.21
  1" - $13.38

We Asked Plumbers: What do you think about PEX piping when compared to copper piping?

Master Plumber Rick Marquette answered: "There really is no comparison. I like my copper pipe because with PEX pipe, you have to have the right tools. It's convenient if you have all the tools...and that really matters when on a job site. I find copper easier to install because of this, and that is the main difference."

Carol Jones said: "It [PEX] is obviously superior, and easy to install. Copper will break, and then there are all the elbows that must be installed. Every spring, with copper, I have breaks from the cold winters. The polyethylene pipe (PEX) will give a little, so it's not as likely to break as copper. And PEX is faster and easier to install and it is easier to drain the system since each line is independent to the incoming source of water. You can turn off each segment. Copper runs all together and is a lot harder to install since you have to know how to solder, and not everyone knows how. With PEX, the only thing you have to do is buy the expensive crimper, which pays off after having to have the copper fixed every spring because of breakage. PEX is more for do-it-yourselfers and it isn't hard to splice, plus it is cheaper to install."

We hope this gives those non-plumbing homeowners or business owners a basic knowledge and understanding of the difference between PEX piping and copper piping. If you have any other plumbing issues, feel free to visit our online plumbing forum.

BROKEN WINDOW SEALS By Ray Croskrey

Broken Window Seals

By Ray Croskrey

You finally decide that you are going to wash those dirty, streaky, hazy looking windows. 

After scrubbing and washing the inside you see that they are still looking quite bad so,

 you rush and do the outside. Still, they look they same as they did when you started.

As you take a closer look you notice that the haziness and streaks are actually inside the panes of glass. You might even see water droplets inside as well. How did this happen and what should be done?

What you see is caused from a failed or broken window seal. Double and triple paned windows and doors are constructed using two or three pieces of glass. In between these pieces of glass is an air space that is enclosed with a seal. This air space is usually filled with a gas such as Argon or krypton. This air space acts as an insulation that reduces the transfer of unwanted losses of warm or cool air inside the house. When the seal eventually cracks or breaks, moisture from the surrounding air is drawn in and will condense on the inside of the glass.

Usually the main reason for a failed window seal is age. Typically a window seal will last around 10 - 15 years. This all depends on the manufacturing quality, and how much stress or abuse the window is subjected to during its life.

Factors that aid in the deterioration of a window seal include:

- Pressure changes caused from hot and cold weather.
- Building settlement.
- Movement from opening and closing.
- Objects hitting the window (balls, birds, etc.).
- Pressure washing.
- Deteriorating frameworks.

Unfortunately, once you have a window with a broken seal there is nothing you can do except replace it. Besides the obvious visual impairment, a broken window seal will not significantly affect the insulating factors to any noticeable degree.

Here are some things you can do to help prolong the life of your windows.

Give your windows an inspection about once or twice every year. Look for any signs of aging or defects. If you have deteriorating outer perimeter seals, you can simply apply a bead of caulk around the edges to keep water from coming in contact with the sash. To keep a wooden window frame from becoming rotten, make sure it has a good coat of paint. If you have windows that get a lot of sun exposure, consider putting up window awnings or outdoor shades. Also make sure the windows get good air circulation indoors and out. This will help keep outer condensation levels to a minimum thus reducing the chances of mold development.

If you decide to replace a window or two, do a bit of research. Find a company that offers a good warranty plan. Most of the higher quality windows now days offer a 10-20 year and even life time warranty.

Fireplace tips

It’s that time of year where the nights are getting colder and having a fire in your fireplace seems like a great idea. There’s a few things you need to do before you use that fireplace to make sure it’s safe.

First, if possible you should get up on your roof and make sure the exterior components are in good shape. Inspect the flashings for gaps and a tight seal to the roof. If you find any gaps you should caulk and seal them to prevent any moisture from intruding.  Next, inspect the chimney itself for any damaged or missing mortar or for anything growing in the mortar. Moss growing in the mortar can cause it to crack and that may lead to further damage. Next check that concrete cap or metal cap at the top for cracks or rust. Cracks and rust can let moisture down and cause issues down in the firebox. If you find cracks make sure to seal them with a concrete repair kit or concrete caulking. If you've got quite a bit of rust on your chimney cap you might need to replace it.

Next, go back inside and look at the fireplace itself. Check the hearth for any damaged material and make repairs if needed. Look inside the firebox for any damage or cracking in the brick or metal. Damage here could lead to bad drafting of the fire and that could lead to thicker creosote build up which is a serious fire hazard. Next, make sure your damper is operable, make sure it opens and closes. If it isn’t working you may be losing a lot of heating or cooling up your chimney making your heating and cooling bills a lot higher. Next, grab a flashlight and shine it up into the flue and check for any cracks or build up. If you spot a build up or cracking then it’s time to call in a chimney sweep and have you fireplace professionally cleaned.

Now that you've got your fireplace in good working order there’s a few things you need to know to making a good fire. Make sure you use only good seasoned wood. Don’t use anything that’s green or freshly cut. Freshly cut or green woods spark and may cause a fire where you don’t want one to be. Don’t use newspaper to start your fire either instead use the newspaper to warm up the top of the firebox or throat so the smoke is drawn up into the flue and not out into the room. You can also use a fire starter log to do the same thing. Once the throat is warm you can build your fire on top of the fire starter log.  Make sure to use your fireplace screen and keep it closed when you have a fire going to prevent any sparks or embers from entering the room. Never use any liquids or trash to start a fire.  Remember to clean out the fireplace of ashes prior to starting your next fire. Those ashes may be hot for several days so dispose of them into a metal container and let them sit for a few days before putting them into the trash or your compost pile.

This might seem like a lot of work but in 2009 alone over 25% of home heating fires were caused by failing to properly clean creosote from chimneys. So spend a little time and money to keep your fireplace clean and in good working order this winter season. 

Carbon Monoxide Prevention

Since things are starting to cool down and you may be thinking about starting that furnace up for the first time you might want to think about the silent and sometimes deadly killer. Carbon monoxide. It is colorless and odorless but at high levels it can kill you. It can be especially dangerous as you sleep since you’ll never notice the symptoms until it’s too late.

Carbon monoxide can be given off by anything that burns. From having a fire in your fireplace to your gas stove to your gas or oil furnace. If your appliances are working correctly or you’re using them correctly then there should be no issues. Idling cars in their garages is one of the major causes for carbon monoxide poisoning.  But there are a few effects that you should be on the look out for. Headaches, dizziness, nausea and mental confusion are a few symptoms. Fetuses, infants and the elderly are especially susceptible to the effects are carbon monoxide.

Over 400 deaths are reported each year due to carbon monoxide poisoning. The good news is that there are ways to help prevent and detect carbon monoxide.  Have your furnace and/or fireplace routinely checked and cleaned.  Make sure all flues are properly connected and cleaned. Also, having good ventilation in your home is crucial; having a tight home will only trap the “bad” air. There are also some Don’ts. Don’t start your car in the garage in the winter to warm up, even with the garage door open, the fumes still can quickly gather and even possibly enter your home. Don’t sleep in any room with an unvented fuel burning appliance.  Installing carbon monoxide detectors in the proper areas is very important. Follow the instruction manual very carefully. Place a carbon monoxide detector outside sleeping areas so if they sound you will wake; also place one on every level of your home. Do not place them too close to furnace or cooking appliance, normally not within 15 feet.

If you do feel like your suffering any of the effects of carbon monoxide poisoning, open all the doors and windows to your home, turn off all fuel burning appliances and get out to the fresh air. Call 911 or go to the emergency room and tell the doctors you suspect carbon monoxide poisoning; it can be confirmed through blood tests if soon after exposure.

                        Remember prevention is the key!

What Should You Expect at your Home Inspection

If you’re a first time home buyer nothing is more confusing or daunting than the home buying process.  After looking at many different properties and finally putting an offer in you have come to the home inspection part of the process. 

Who do you choose and how do you find a competent inspector? First, your inspector should belong to the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI) which is the only association to have their inspectors certified by a third party. http://www.stlashi.org/ is your portal to find a local inspector. Make sure to ask your potential inspector what their fee will be, if you should attend the inspection, how long they have been inspecting and if they are an ACI or ASHI Certified Inspector.

Now that you’ve chosen you’re inspector make sure to review the sellers disclosure and make a list of any questions about the property you may have. Now on to the actual inspection, you and your family may be present at the inspection but try not to invite everyone, like your friend the contractor. This will just distract your inspector away from his task and this won’t serve you the client very well.  Your real estate agent should be present so they can help guide you through the process after the inspection.

Your inspector will inspect everything from the roof all the way down to the basement and almost everything in between. Your inspector will check the furnace, the electrical panel, run lots of water to check for leaks, open and close windows and doors, check outlets and look for safety issues such as missing handrails and lack of GFCI’s (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters). Your home inspector may not inspect pools or septic systems, those usually require specialized inspections. Your inspector will also show you how to operate your systems and where your water shutoff is. During the process you should ask your inspector all of your questions you may have had, other questions will probably come up during the inspection and you should ask your inspector those as well.  

After all this your inspector will produce a report and typically most will email you the finished report either the same evening or the next day. Take your time and read the entire report no matter how boring and time consuming it may seem. The report will contain all the pertinent information on the house and should also contain pictures of a lot of the defects. Depending on the inspector he may also include a summary, this is usually all the defects and is primarily for the real estate agent which they may use as a part of the negotiations. Once you receive the report and have questions make sure to contact the inspector and ask your questions as this is all part of the inspection process.

Now comes the time where you and you’re real estate agent get together and figure out what your next step is, whether that is negotiation or choosing your paint colors. This is by no means a complete tutorial on the inspection process but may give you some insight into the process. As you can see getting an inspection is very important and although may seem like a scary process shouldn't be skipped.