Dishwasher Care

How to Clean Your Dishwasher and Remove Odor

1. Using a small brush (old toothbrushes work well) dipped in hot soapy water, go around the door of the dishwasher taking care to get into the grooves and crevices of the rubber seal. Most likely, you'll be surprised at the debris that has built up, especially at the bottom of the door and around the hinges on the side.
2. Scrub well. You may need to use a soft abrasive cleanser, such as Soft Scrub® to remove the dried and baked on grime.
3. Using a household sponge dipped in hot soapy water, wipe off the dirt and grime that you stirred up with the brush. Go over the inside of the door and scrub any obvious areas inside the dishwasher that may have stuck-on food, such as out of reach corners.
4. Pull the bottom rack out and examine the drain area. Wipe around it to be sure there are no hard chunks that can plug the drain, cause damage to the pump or scratch dishes. You'd be surprised at what dishwasher repairmen find - bones, crab shells, chips of glass, and even small pieces of gravel!
5. Using a clean wet sponge or dishrag, wipe the cleaning solution from the gasket and the door.
6. Then place a dishwasher-safe cup filled with plain white vinegar on the top rack of the dishwasher. Using the hottest water available, run the dishwasher through a cycle - except for the cup of vinegar, the dishwasher needs to be empty.
7. The vinegar will help to wash away the loose, greasy grime, sanitizes, and helps remove the musty odor.
8. If you don't have any white vinegar, you can substitute a packet of unsweetened lemonade mix in the soap cup. Don't experiment with other flavors as they could stain the inside of your dishwasher.
9. Baking soda is also effective at freshening and brightening your dishwasher. Just sprinkle a cupful around the bottom of the tub and run it through a short but complete cycle using the hottest water. Baking soda is also helpful in removing stains.

Dishwashing Tips

1. It is probably not necessary to pre-wash your dishes like some people do, but it is important to scrape off leftover food from plates and bowls. Rinse and then load into the dishwasher.
2. Use common sense when loading your dishes. Put table ware in the appropriate compartment; placing sharp knives with their tips down.
3. Don't jam dishes in - give adequate space between plates and bowls to allow the water to circulate freely; likewise, be careful that a large bowl or lid does not block the water spray from reaching the inside of other dishes and drink ware.
4. Use the hottest water available for washing your dishes in the dish washer. This is necessary for dried-on food removal, for properly dissolving the dish-washing detergent you use, and for sterilizing germs.
5. Major detergent and dishwasher manufacturers recommend a water temperature of at least 130° to work effectively.
6. Many areas have fairly hard water which affects the cleaning properties of detergents. Fill both detergent cups and use a rinsing agent if you need to.

Dishwasher Problems and How To Avoid Them

If your glassware has a cloudy appearance, soak it in white vinegar for five minutes. If this causes the cloudiness to disappear, most likely it is caused by a hard water deposit and you may need to use more detergent. If, however, the cloudiness remains, it may indicate "etching" - which is a permanent condition. You can avoid further damage to the glassware by using less detergent and not using a pre-washing cycle.

If you are inclined to pre-wash your dishes before you put them in the dishwasher, consider this. Dishwasher detergent NEEDS a certain amount of grease and dirt in order to do its job. Otherwise, it actually foams up during the cycle which is not good for your dishwasher.

Dishwashers operate with a minimal amount of water. All that is really needed is enough to barely reach and cover the heating element to maintain proper water temperature. You should check the water level periodically to be sure it reaches the requirement.

Let the unit fill, wait until the wash cycle begins, then open the door and look to be sure the water is covering the element.

Perform a thorough, routine cleaning of your dishwasher, such as described above in "How To Clean Your Dishwasher and Remove Odor".

If you do not have a water softener and want to avoid spotting on your glassware, use a rinse aid such as Jet-Dry®. I like the solid type rather than liquid because it's easier to see when you need to add more. The liquid dispenser is hidden from view and may be empty for several cycles before you realize it.

Solid rinse aids are visible because they are contained in a little basket on the rack. They work during the entire wash and rinse cycle. They work best when placed in the front left corner, upper rack. If you have a water softener, you should not need to use a rinse aid.

Great Information from Mrs. Clean

Arc Fault Interupter

Almost no one outside of electrician and home inspectors even know about Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters. They have become mandatory since 2008 by the SEC and by now we should all know what they are.

AFCIs are the latest and greatest in circuit protection.  They are designed to protect your house wiring against a variety of faults, and help prevent fires.

Arcing faults can be caused by damaged, or improperly installed wiring. These faults can get very hot, and are a common source of house fires.  Driving a nail or screw into a wire, rodents, loose wire nuts,or even age can cause a wire to fail.

These breakers will not reset, until the fault goes away, or the wire is repaired.
If it keeps tripping, call a qualified electrician to locate the problem. I made the breaker bold because the issue is in the electrical panel by way of the outlets in bedrooms.

You can test an Arc Fault breaker by hitting the button. It should pop open the breaker. Then you turn it all the way off, and then back on again.
If you find an Arc fault breaker that is tripped in your house, first unplug everything om that circuit, then try to reset it.  If it resets, then it could be a faulty cord or device that is plugged into it.  If it still trips then call an electrician, because you may have a serious problem.

Here's a video from YouTube that explains Arc Fault Interrupters.  Boring, but informative. 

Home Maintenance Schedule and Checklist

Like a car, your home needs regular maintenance and occasional tune-ups to stay in tip-top shape. Fortunately, you can complete most of the following tasks yourself by following this season-by-season schedule of indoor and outdoor maintenance.

Spring Home Maintenance

In spring, focus on freshening up your home and protecting your property against the season's strong winds and rains.

Outdoor Tasks:

• Clean gutters and downspouts. Learn how to maintain your gutters.
• Inspect roof and chimney for cracks and damage.
• Touch up peeling or damaged paint. Watch our video for ideas on troubleshooting exterior paint problems.
• Wash all windows, inside and out.
• Install screens on windows and doors.
• Clean outdoor furniture and air out cushions.
• Service your lawn mower.
• Fertilize your lawn.

Indoor Tasks:

• Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors when you set clocks forward.
• If your basement has a sump pump, test it by dumping a large bucket of water into the basin of the sump pump. This should activate the sump pump. If it does not switch on or if it's not pumping water, it may need to be serviced by a professional. Also, check for and remove any debris and make sure there are no leaks.
• Wash and change seasonal bedding.
• Dust blinds and vacuum curtains throughout your house.
• Clean kitchen and bathroom cabinets and throw away outdated food, medicine and cosmetics.

Summer Home Maintenance

In fall, prepare your home and yard for cooler temperatures, falling leaves and more hours spent indoors.

Outdoor Tasks:

• Clean gutters and downspouts. Get information on maintaining your gutters.
• Inspect roof and chimney for cracks and damage.
• Rake leaves and shred to use as mulch or dispose of them based on local guidelines.
• Close or install storm windows.
• Remove hoses from spigots and drain and store indoors, coiled and flat.
• Store outdoor furniture and cushions.
• Test snow blower and have it professionally serviced if necessary. 
• Rake Leaves

Indoor Tasks:

• Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors when you set clocks back in the fall. See our carbon monoxide detector buying guide. Learn more about detecting and preventing carbon monoxide.
• Check windows and doors for weather-tightness and install weather stripping where it's needed. Check out our tips on weather stripping windows and doors.
• Have furnace professionally inspected.
• If needed, set traps for rodents.
• Dust blinds and vacuum curtains throughout your house.
• Clean kitchen and bathroom cabinets and throw away outdated food, medicine and cosmetics

Fall Home Maintenance

In fall, prepare your home and yard for cooler temperatures, falling leaves and more hours spent indoors.

Outdoor Tasks:

• Clean gutters and downspouts. Get information on maintaining your gutters.
• Inspect roof and chimney for cracks and damage.
• Rake leaves and shred to use as mulch or dispose of them based on local guidelines.
• Close or install storm windows.
• Remove hoses from spigots and drain and store indoors, coiled and flat.
• Store outdoor furniture and cushions.
• Test snow blower and have it professionally serviced if necessary. 
• Rake Leaves

Indoor Tasks:

• Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors when you set clocks back in the fall. See our carbon monoxide detector buying guide. Learn more about detecting and preventing carbon monoxide.
• Check windows and doors for weather-tightness and install weather stripping where it's needed. Check out our tips on weather stripping windows and doors.
• Have furnace professionally inspected.
• If needed, set traps for rodents.
• Dust blinds and vacuum curtains throughout your house.
• Clean kitchen and bathroom cabinets and throw away outdated food, medicine and cosmetics

Winter Home Maintenance

In winter, enjoy energy-efficient warmth and the fruits of your home-maintenance labors. Use this time of the year to thoroughly clean and care for your home's interior while taking a few precautionary measures on the outside.

Outdoor Tasks:

• Walk around your home's exterior and check the crawl space vents located at the foundation. Close any that are open.
• Protect your central air conditioning unit with a cover, and remove and store window air conditioners.
• Clean and store garden tools.
• Move snow shovels and snow blowers to a convenient spot.  

Indoor Tasks:

• Change or clean furnace filters. Consult manufacturer instructions for your furnace to determine how frequently the filters should be replaced. See our tips on choosing a home air filter and information on cleaning and replacing HVAC filters.
• Clean kitchen appliances inside and out, including refrigerator coils.
• Maintain clean drains by adding one-half-cup baking soda followed by one-half-cup white vinegar. After 10 minutes, flush with boiling water.

Good advice from Lowe's

What is a Home Inspection?

What is a home inspection? 

A home inspection is an objective visual examination of the physical structure and systems of a house, from the roof to the foundation.

What does a home inspection include?
The standard home inspector’s report will cover the condition of the home’s heating system; central air conditioning system (temperature permitting); interior plumbing and electrical systems; the roof, attic and visible insulation; walls, ceilings, floors, windows and doors; the foundation, basement and structural components.

The American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI) publishes a Standards of Practice and Code of Ethics that outlines what you should expect to be covered in your home inspection report.

Why do I need a home inspection?
Buying a home could be the largest single investment you will ever make. To minimize unpleasant surprises and unexpected difficulties, you’ll want to learn as much as you can about the newly constructed or existing house before you buy it. A home inspection may identify the need for major repairs or builder oversights, as well as the need for maintenance to keep it in good shape. After the inspection, you will know more about the house, which will allow you to make decisions with confidence.
If you already are a homeowner, a home inspection can identify problems in the making and suggest preventive measures that might help you avoid costly future repairs.
If you are planning to sell your home, a home inspection can give you the opportunity to make repairs that will put the house in better selling condition.

What will it cost?
The inspection fee for a typical one-family house varies geographically, as does the cost of housing. Similarly, within a given area, the inspection fee may vary depending on a number of factors such as the size of the house, its age and possible optional services such as septic, well or radon testing.

Do not let cost be a factor in deciding whether or not to have a home inspection or in the selection of your home inspector. The sense of security and knowledge gained from an inspection is well worth the cost, and the lowest-priced inspection is not necessarily a bargain. Use the inspector’s qualifications, including experience, training, and compliance with your state’s regulations, if any, and professional affiliations as a guide.

Can a house fail a home inspection?
No. A professional home inspection is an examination of the current condition of a house. It is not an appraisal, which determines market value. It is not a municipal inspection, which verifies local code compliance. A home inspector, therefore, will not pass or fail a house, but rather describe its physical condition and indicate what components and systems may need major repair or replacement.

When do I call a home inspector?
Typically, a home inspector is contacted immediately after the contract or purchase agreement has been signed. Before you sign, be sure there is an inspection clause in the sales contract, making your final purchase obligation contingent on the findings of a professional home inspection. This clause should specify the terms and conditions to which both the buyer and seller are obligated.

Do I have to be there?
While it’s not required that you be present for the inspection, it is highly recommended. You will be able to observe the inspector and ask questions as you learn about the condition of the home and how to maintain it.


What if the report reveals problems?
No house is perfect. If the inspector identifies problems, it doesn’t mean you should or shouldn’t buy the house, only that you will know in advance what to expect. If your budget is tight, or if you don’t want to become involved in future repair work, this information will be important to you. If major problems are found, a seller may agree to make repairs.

Garage Door Roller Maintenance

Whether you raise and lower your garage door manually or you have an electric door opener, regular attention to the rollers and tracks keeps the door operating properly. With daily use, over time the rollers wear out or need lubricating, and the tracks can become misaligned. This causes the door to drag or bind, making it harder and harder to raise and lower. If you take the time to give the rollers and tracks a yearly checkup, you can prevent potential problems and keep your garage door operating smoothly.

1

Remove your vehicles or any other items that may make it difficult for you to reach the garage door rollers and tracks. While inside the garage, close the door. Set up a step ladder to inspect the rollers and tracks.

2

Examine all the rollers and replace any that are worn. If the rollers are metal with unsealed bearings, brush around the bearings with an old toothbrush to dislodge any buildup of grease and dirt and then wipe away the debris with a clean rag. Spray silicone spray oil on the bearings. If the rollers are nylon with sealed bearings, no lubrication is necessary. Spray the lubricant into and around the stems of the rollers.

3

Inspect all the nuts and bolts holding the roller hinges and the track mounting brackets in place. Tighten the loose parts and replace all rusted or worn nuts and bolts.

4

Clean the inside of the tracks with an old toothbrush to dislodge any buildup of grease, grime or dirt. Spray disc brake cleaner into the tracks and then wipe out the tracks with a clean rag to remove the cleaner and debris.

5

Check the alignment of the horizontal tacks. Rest a level along the top of the tracks. For proper operation, the tracks must slant slightly from the opening toward the back wall of the garage. Both tracks must also hang the same distance from the ceiling. If adjustments are necessary, loosen the bolts holding the track mounting brackets, carefully tap the track into position with a rubber mallet, and then tighten the bolts.

6

Check the alignment of the vertical tracks. Hold the level along each track and check for plumb. If adjustments are necessary, loosen the mounting bolts, hold a wood block against the track, and tap the block. Recheck for plumb and when the track is in the right position, retighten the mounting bolts.

What about that Deck?

As a home inspector, I must  report that the majority of decks that I evaluate are built with substandard materials and workmanship that endanger the safety of the occupants. I urge you to take a few moments and examine the safety of a few key checkpoints that could ultimately cause injury or death if not corrected. Let's inspect the deck together from top to bottom.

First, walk across the deck and take note of any springiness in the floor frame or do a little bounce at the center point. Did you know that a springy floor frame is a telltale sign of a problem? The floor frame should be capable of supporting live and dead loads without exhibiting movement. If the deck does shake, rattle or roll, then the floor frame is most likely undersized, over-spanned or both. Reinforcement is needed to prevent collapse.

While on the deck, walk to the center of the outside guardrail. Holding the railing with hands spread wide and feet spread wide apart, shift your weight left and right while pulling on the railing with the objective of trying to make the deck move from side to side. If the deck exhibits lateral movement, it is unsafe and reinforcement is needed to prevent collapse. Elevated decks are notorious for dangerous swaying problems.

Let's take a moment to examine the guard railing. Measure the height of the railing - it should be a minimum of 36 inches high. Take a look at the balusters, they should be vertical (not horizontal) and the spacing should not exceed a maximum of 4 inches. Low railings, large spacing between balusters or horizontal balusters can all result in a personal injury and are unsafe. Grasp some of the balusters and give them a little twist test to check for secure attachment. The balusters are best fastened with exterior screws. Shake the railing and posts, there should be no sign of movement. The posts that support the railings are best fastened with carriage bolts that run through the post and rim joists. Did you know that the railing should be capable of withstanding 200 lbs. of lateral pressure?  Even treated lumber requires maintenance or sun damage and decay may result. Most of the decks I inspect have never received a treatment with wood preservative and obvious nail pops and splinters stick up from the floor boards and railings posing a risk of personal injury. Have you ever had to restrain your child while the doctor struggles to remove nasty splinters from hands or feet? You should examine all deck surfaces and replace those boards that have splinters or decay. Sanding away splinters is not an option, as the grain will continue to lift. Nail pops should be countersunk. Last, get out there and apply a wood preservative at 2-3 year intervals.

 Take a look up in the air. If a new deck has been added and it is located beneath the overhead electrical wires, there could be a serious risk of shock or electrocution. A ten-foot clearance is needed. Many do-it-yourselfers never consider the proximity to the electrical service. Shocking!

 Take a walk down the deck stairs. Are the tread & riser dimensions uniform? Are the handrails and posts secure? Is a center stringer missing resulting in springy stairs? Are the bases of the stringers buried in the soil or do they rest upon a nice little concrete stoop? Next, take a look underneath the stairs as many that I inspect a weakly attached to the deck as an afterthought just waiting to collapse.  Time to get underneath and take a look at things. One of the most flagrant problems that I find when inspecting decks is the omission of lag bolts. Check where the ledger joist or deck is fastened to the house. If you see only nail heads,

then the installer failed to properly secure the deck frame to the house frame and the entire structure could collapse during that graduation party. You should see the presence of "lag bolts" spaced several feet apart that firmly tie the two structures together. Without the lag bolts, the shear strength of the nails alone may fail under load resulting in total deck collapse! Next, take a look at each end of the floor joists. You should see the presence of metal joist hangers beneath each end of each joist. If the hangers are missing, then the floor joists are only end nailed and could collapse under load. The joist hangers provide each joist with 1 1/2 inches of required end bearing to safely support all of your guests. If the joist hangers are present, inspect the nail holes in the hangers themselves to see that each is filled with a joist hanger nail (not a roofing nail). 

 If a main girder is present, it should be properly assembled so that any splices fall above support posts and with support posts that are properly sized and spaced. If you note any evidence of sagging or scissoring at joints then there could be a problem. If the floor joists are cantilevered beyond a main girder, then as a "rule of thumb" the cantilever should not exceed approximately two feet.  I hope that you notice some support posts beneath the deck and that they are spaced about 4-7 feet apart. Examine the joint and the method of fastening where the posts join the floor frame. Often posts are over-notched, decayed or poorly secured at this location. Next, probe the base of each post for decay at they are exposed to constant wet dry cycles. Better builders will raise the base of the posts up on metal anchors to prevent decay and also to secure the posts to the footings. Sight down the row of support posts and footings for plumb. If you see any signs of tilting, then a problems is indicated and repair is needed.  Down at ground level, there should not be any vegetation left under the deck and the footings should extend below frost level (four feet deep in this area). If you find that the deck posts only rest on concrete blocks or patio blocks then it is obvious that proper construction standards were not followed and the deck is vulnerable to frost movement. If you find that the deck posts are buried within the concrete footings, then the footings will eventually crack from water infiltration and frost expansion. Ideally, the footings should be four feet in the ground and should project slightly above grade.

 In closing, your deck is part of the means of egress for the occupants and another living space. It must be safely built, safely supported and safely fastened to the home. Any deficiencies in the above could result in collapse and personal injury. If you have questions about the safety of your deck, then you should consult a member of the American Society of Home Inspectors or your local building department. 

Information herein was borrowed from ASHI

Lights Flicker?

Flickering In One Area

• The problem could lie with lights that are on the same circuit. If that's the case, the likely source of the problem is in the circuit breaker or the neutral connection. The neutral connection runs to the electrical "ground." More often than not, connections, especially the neutral connection, are the problem. It is less common for connections along the path to the circuit to be faulty. A good clue that the problem may lie with the neutral line is that some lights become more dim while others brighten. If only some lights on a circuit blink, this indicates the trouble lies somewhere along the circuit to the panel--a much more difficult problem to diagnose and solve.

Flickering Throughout The House

• It's hard to tell if the lights flicker all over simultaneously because you can be at only one place at one time. A friend or member of the household can assist you in discovering if the flickering problem affects the entire home. If the flickering isn't limited to a single bulb, outlet or circuit, there is a good chance that a main wire connection in the home's circuit breaker panel is the cause. It could even mean that the problem lies outside of the house in the supply line from the power company's transformer to your home.

  Flickering When Major Appliances Turn On

  • A slight, interim flicker is not uncommon when big-power drainers with motors such as washing machines and air conditioner compressors kick on. Use a gauge to check that the phase-to-ground voltage is around 120 volts. If the voltage dips momentarily when a large appliance is turned on, there probably is no serious problem. Check the voltage at the panel, the main line and have an electrician check the voltage at the meter enclosure.

  An Electrician's Tip

  • Before expecting the worst, there is an old electrician's trick to track a potential problem quickly. If the problem if more than just one light or area, check the wall outlet voltage on the outside wall nearest to the service panel, that is, the circuit breaker panel. The reason is a logical one, from an electrician's point of view. Homes are often wired with the first outlet box on the circuit as the distribution point for the rest of the circuit. Variations in temperature, moisture and the fact that the entire flow of electricity for that circuit runs through that outlet, makes it most susceptible to loosening or wear on the wires and their connections.

    
    

    
    

    
    

    Borrowed from Chuck Ayres

  
  

Choosing the right filter for your furnace

The choice of which filter to buy for your furnace depends on how much you want to spend, what you're trying to filter, and how diligent you are about changing the filter.

The minimum efficiency reporting value (MERV) scale goes from 1 to 16. Most residential filters range from 4 to 12. Furnace manufacturers prefer the traditional spun fiberglass filters (MERV 2) because they filter out enough of the large particles to protect the furnace while providing maximum airflow. Maintaining the furnace manufacturer's specified airflow is critical to achieving energy efficiency and maximum life from the blower motor and heat exchanger. An inexpensive MERV 4 filter captures 80 percent of the particles 50 microns and larger, but only 25 percent of the particles in the 3 to 10 micron range.

For most homeowners, a more expensive MERV 7 or 8 pleated filter provides a good balance between cost and filtration efficiency. These filters trap 80 to 95 percent of the particles 5 microns and larger—more than enough filtration for most households.

Furnace efficiency is one thing. But if you're a clean freak or have family members with allergies or low-immunity issues, spend more on a high-efficiency (MERV 11 and higher) filter. Then just make sure you stay on top of filter changes to protect your furnace.

High-efficiency filters capture 99 percent of airborne particles as small as 0.3 microns (bacteria and viruses, fumes and pollen). But you'll have to run your furnace fan full time to get the maximum benefit from a high-efficiency filter, and that will cost more. Figure the extra cost into your decision.

Finally, never switch from a fiberglass filter to a high-efficiency filter without first talking to your HVAC technician. The technician can boost fan speed to compensate for the reduced airflow. Even then, you still have to be diligent about replacing the filter regularly. A clogged filter can burn out the blower motor, damage the heat exchanger and cost you hundreds of dollars in wasted energy.

Foundation Cracks

There are no perfect houses. Whether you have a new home or one that’s a hundred years old, houses have cracks. Houses shift and settle into position after construction.

Houses will have cracks in either the cosmetic finishes or structural components. Most of these cracks have no structural significance. Some are significant and Pillar To Post home inspectors use every technique to help their clients figure out the difference.

Shrinkage Cracks

A newly poured, concrete foundation may contain small cracks because concrete shrinks as it cures. Fortunately, a shrinkage crack in a foundation wall is not structurally significant. Here’s how to recognize a shrinkage crack in a poured, concrete foundation:

•  The crack will be small, less than 1/8th of an inch wide.
•  The crack will be vertical.
•  The crack will not extend up through the structure. The crack is in the foundation wall only.
•  Shrinkage cracks usually occur in the middle third of the length of the foundation wall. If the crack is located towards the end of the length of the foundation wall, it’s probably not a shrinkage crack.

  Horizontal Cracks In A Basement Foundation Wall

  This discussion relates to cracks in the concrete foundation wall for a house with a basement. This is not relevant to slabs on grade or to cracks in walls above grade level.
  A horizontal crack in a foundation wall, below grade, which runs the length of the basement, is likely a sign that the foundation is failing under the weight of the surrounding soil. The soil outside the foundation wall exerts an enormous pressure on the foundation wall. Foundation walls are designed to be strong enough to resist this load. Occasionally, unanticipated, additional loads exert pressure and the foundation begins to fail, resulting in a horizontal crack in the foundation wall.

  Settlement Cracks

  Foundation settlement cracks are vertical, extending up through the structure. For a brick home, you may see cracks following the mortar joints in the brick wall. In most cases, the settlement crack itself has no structural significance. Rather, we are concerned that the house could continue to settle over time.
  Most settlement cracks are the result of short-term settlement. Ongoing settlement is unlikely and uncommon. Unfortunately, it is very difficult to identify ongoing settlement from a one-time visit to the home. Since multiple visits to the home over a few years is not compatible with a real estate transaction, we have to use our experience to ‘read the cracks’ and take an educated guess as to whether ongoing settlement is likely.
  Settlement crack size: A larger settlement crack is more likely to be due to ongoing movement than a smaller settlement crack. While there are no hard and fast rules, a settlement crack or series of settlement cracks that have a sum total opening of less than 1/4 inch are probably not due to ongoing settlement.
  Direction of movement: A typical settlement crack is vertical, where the crack opens up. The bumps and crevices line up and fit together like the pieces of a puzzle. If the crack face has moved in any other directions, such as a shear crack, the quarter-inch rule described above does not apply. This can be a significant structural concern.
  Repaired and re-cracked: A settlement crack that has been repaired and has re-cracked (not just a hairline crack) also could indicate ongoing movement.
  Information from Living with My Home
  
  
  
  
  
  

Installing an exterior french drain by David Beaulieu

What are French drains? When are they useful?

If your neighbor’s land stands at a higher elevation than yours, you may be experiencing problems with excessive moisture on your property. Water from your neighbor’s property may be running down the slope (just one of the challenges of landscaping on a hill) and spilling onto your property. You need better yard drainage. One option in such cases is installing French drains.

When some people speak of a “French drain,” they refer to a trench in which a drain pipe is laid, but the traditional French drain is basically a trench filled with gravel.

Difficulty: Average

Time Required: Depends on extent of water flow and ground to traverse.

Here's How:

1. Determine a spot on your property where the excess water coming off the slope could be re-routed. Determining such a location may end up being a matter of choosing “the lesser of two evils.” If water is currently spilling out at your house foundation and excessive moisture threatens to damage it, obviously almost any other spot would be preferable. The ideal French drain leach field would be an out-of-the-way area with sandy soil, through which the water could percolate harmlessly....
2. But be sure your attempt at yard drainage will not adversely impact anyone else’s land. Otherwise, installing a French drain could land you a lawsuit! Check your city codes before digging. Another preliminary step that could save you headaches later is checking with your local utilities concerning the whereabouts of underground cables and the like, so that you'll know where not to excavate for a French drain. There's a quick way to check: just dial the Dig Rite phone number. 
3. Locate the best area for a French drain. Find an area along the slope on your side of the boundary where excavation would be easiest for your French drain (i.e., free of obstructions). Trench lines should be plotted out before you begin digging French drains. You need to create your own mini-slope to carry the water down to its destination. A grade of 1% (i.e., a drop of 1 foot for every 100 feet in length) is often recommended for French drains; others advise a drop of 6" for every 100'. Getting the water to go where you wish is essential for improving yard drainage; the grade will facilitate your efforts. 
4. So how do you measure the grading for a French drain? Pound 2 stakes into the ground to mark the beginning and end of the trench. Tie a string tightly to one of the stakes, then run it over to the other stake and tie it off there, too, but loosely (for now). Attach a string level to the string, adjusting the string to get it level. Once it’s level, tighten the string at the second stake. Make sure the string is taut. Now begin digging the trench. As you dig, you’ll be able to measure down from the string to make sure you are achieving the desired grade for your French drain. 5.
5. Check yourself as you go. For instance, if the trench for the French drain is to be 100’ long and the grade 1%, then by the time your trench is 50’ long, it should be 6" deeper than where you began excavating. 6.
6. You'll be digging a horizontal trench across the length of the slope. The digging is the most labor-intensive part of installing French drains. The trench will slope down toward the area where you've determined the water will be re-routed (if it doesn’t quite reach that spot, you’ll have to dig a connecting ditch down to it). Trench width will depend on the magnitude of your moisture problem. Bigger moisture problems call for wider trenches. Small trenches are often dug to a width of 5”-6”. 7.
7. Before applying gravel, line the trench with landscape fabric. The landscape fabric will keep dirt out of the gravel. You want to preserve the porosity of the gravel, which promotes percolation of water through it -- one of the underlying principles that make covered French drains work. Shovel a coarse gravel onto the landscape fabric. Wrap the ends of the landscape fabric over the top of the gravel layer. 
8. You now essentially have a tube of landscape fabric filled with gravel. To fill in the rest of the trench, shovel in a layer of coarse sand, cover it with more landscape fabric, add 4" of topsoil and lay sod on top. Your French drain is complete!

Tips:

1. Hire a surveyor. If you don't think you can get the grading right for a French drain on your own (Step 3), hire a surveyor. Or simply hire a pro to do the whole job.
2. Hire a backhoe operator. If you're not inclined to dig a French drain trench by hand, you could hire a backhoe operator. But that will jack up the cost for the French drain -- not only for the digging, but for the extra gravel you'll need (since a backhoe can't dig as small a trench as can a person wielding a spade). Another alternative is suggested by reader, Matt Fisher, noting that "many rental shops rent trenchers now. These machines cut very thin trenches...."
3. Bigger not necessarily better. If you can get away with a small trench (Step 6) for your French drain, you'll save money, as there'll be less gravel needed to fill the trench.
4. Terminology. "Gravel" is a term that can be used differently in different regions. Here, "gravel" refers to small pieces of rock.
5. Where to channel the runoff. The most difficult problem in installing French drains can be figuring out where to channel the water. For possible solutions, consult this article on what to do with runoff.

Attic Inspections

Throughout this  I will highlight the different systems found in the attic, followed by the main problems home inspectors identify during the attic inspection. In order for the attic space to function well, the combination of insulation, ventilation and vapor barrier must work in harmony. However, it is all too common for one or more of these components to be flawed, which ultimately leads to any number of conditions.

The attic is also a space where other systems such as the structure, roof sheathing, electrical, heating and plumbing concerns can be discovered…which makes this space one of the most important areas of the home to investigate.

Structure – The roof and ceiling structure can be seen in the attic. Sometimes we discover that structural members are leaning, broken, rotting, split, sagging, cut or improperly installed. These are the issues that would warrant further investigation or repairs, depending on the specific situation.

Roof Sheathing – This is the main support for the materials that cover the roof, such as the shingles. We look at the sheathing to see if we can notice any leakage, water stains, wood rot or fungal staining. (Mold)

Electrical – It is not uncommon to see electrical wires running through the attic. We want to make sure that the wires have been properly secured to the structural members and out of the way. However, I see wires running in all sorts of directions laid out on the insulation and fully exposed. This can pose a serious fire hazard especially if rodents find and chew on the wires. Sometimes pot lights are covered with insulation, which could be a fire hazard if the lights are not containing the letters IC, which stands for insulated ceiling.

Heating – Chimneys and vents often run through the attic on their way up through the roof. Often, the connections are not secure or the fully discharging out through the sheathing. Metal chimneys could be rusted from condensation or missing a fire stop at the bottom.

Plumbing – Much like chimneys and heat vents, plumbing stacks run through the attic and on through to the outside. Home inspectors pay attention to plumbing stacks that discharge their gasses into the attic area. This is fairly evident from the gas odors… and confirmed when we can actually see it.

Insulation, Vapor Barrier and Ventilation Concerns:

Insulation – The insulation is meant to keep the living space below the attic warm. The most common issues I find are too little, inconsistent, compressed or missing insulation. The main concern is heat loss, which leads to higher energy costs. So, it makes a lot of sense to ensure that the attic space has adequate and consistent insulation.  When the insulation has been compressed or wet from leaks or condensation it loses its R-value (The greater the R-vale, the better insulation can resist heat loss)

Sometimes however, adding too much insulation in the wrong areas of the attic can be problematic as well, because it will make the attic colder, but not necessarily limit the moist air that leaks into the attic (this is what vapor barrier is for). As a result, condensation builds up on the wood members because the warm moist air mixes with the cool attic air before it can be vented out. If left unchecked for long enough, rot damage will happen.

In older homes, there is the possibility of finding dangerous insulation, such as vermiculite containing asbestos. When disturbed, the tiny particles of asbestos can get lodged into the lungs leading to cancer, years down the road. I recommend that the vermiculite be tested. If the test reveals that there is a dangerous percentage of asbestos found, then a Hazardous materials company must be called in to remove it. This can be very disruptive and expensive, depending on the time it takes and the overall amount to be removed.

Vapor Barrier – When installed correctly, the vapor barrier is essentially what stops the warm, moist air from the living space from entering the attic from below. In cooler climates the vapor barrier must be placed on the warm side (below the attic insulation). The main problems we find includes incomplete, incorrect placement and vapor barrier that is missing altogether. Really, any opening from the living space below can lead to moisture related problems, depending on the temperature and ventilation in the attic. Some common leakage points include, plumbing attacks, pot lights, vents, ducts and around chimneys. Subsequently, a properly weather-stripped and insulated attic hatch with vapor barrier is one of the best ways to reduce the heat and airflow into the attic.

Ventilation – Proper ventilation is the last piece of the puzzle.  The different types of attic vents include ridge, (at the very top, along the length of the roof peak) roof, soffit, and gable vents. Poor ventilation usually happens as a result of improper installation. One condition I frequently discover is when soffit vents have been blocked by insulation. Other times there are not enough roof vents installed. Ideally, about 50% of the ventilation should be located in the soffit areas.

Again, if the attic ventilation has been obstructed or there is or inadequate ventilation then condensation will take place, leading to mildew, mold and rot damage.

I have also seen other problems in the attic such as broken bathroom vents, laundry exhaust vents discharging into the soffit areas, torn vapor barriers, bee hives and other pests, just to name a few.