Sunday, January 27, 2013

Attic Inspections


Throughout this  I will highlight the different systems found in the attic, followed by the main problems home inspectors identify during the attic inspection. In order for the attic space to function well, the combination of insulation, ventilation and vapor barrier must work in harmony. However, it is all too common for one or more of these components to be flawed, which ultimately leads to any number of conditions.
The attic is also a space where other systems such as the structure, roof sheathing, electrical, heating and plumbing concerns can be discovered…which makes this space one of the most important areas of the home to investigate.
Structure – The roof and ceiling structure can be seen in the attic. Sometimes we discover that structural members are leaning, broken, rotting, split, sagging, cut or improperly installed. These are the issues that would warrant further investigation or repairs, depending on the specific situation.
Roof Sheathing – This is the main support for the materials that cover the roof, such as the shingles. We look at the sheathing to see if we can notice any leakage, water stains, wood rot or fungal staining. (Mold)
Electrical – It is not uncommon to see electrical wires running through the attic. We want to make sure that the wires have been properly secured to the structural members and out of the way. However, I see wires running in all sorts of directions laid out on the insulation and fully exposed. This can pose a serious fire hazard especially if rodents find and chew on the wires. Sometimes pot lights are covered with insulation, which could be a fire hazard if the lights are not containing the letters IC, which stands for insulated ceiling.
Heating – Chimneys and vents often run through the attic on their way up through the roof. Often, the connections are not secure or the fully discharging out through the sheathing. Metal chimneys could be rusted from condensation or missing a fire stop at the bottom.
Plumbing – Much like chimneys and heat vents, plumbing stacks run through the attic and on through to the outside. Home inspectors pay attention to plumbing stacks that discharge their gasses into the attic area. This is fairly evident from the gas odors… and confirmed when we can actually see it.
Insulation, Vapor Barrier and Ventilation Concerns:
Insulation – The insulation is meant to keep the living space below the attic warm. The most common issues I find are too little, inconsistent, compressed or missing insulation. The main concern is heat loss, which leads to higher energy costs. So, it makes a lot of sense to ensure that the attic space has adequate and consistent insulation.  When the insulation has been compressed or wet from leaks or condensation it loses its R-value (The greater the R-vale, the better insulation can resist heat loss)
Sometimes however, adding too much insulation in the wrong areas of the attic can be problematic as well, because it will make the attic colder, but not necessarily limit the moist air that leaks into the attic (this is what vapor barrier is for). As a result, condensation builds up on the wood members because the warm moist air mixes with the cool attic air before it can be vented out. If left unchecked for long enough, rot damage will happen.
In older homes, there is the possibility of finding dangerous insulation, such as vermiculite containing asbestos. When disturbed, the tiny particles of asbestos can get lodged into the lungs leading to cancer, years down the road. I recommend that the vermiculite be tested. If the test reveals that there is a dangerous percentage of asbestos found, then a Hazardous materials company must be called in to remove it. This can be very disruptive and expensive, depending on the time it takes and the overall amount to be removed.
Vapor Barrier – When installed correctly, the vapor barrier is essentially what stops the warm, moist air from the living space from entering the attic from below. In cooler climates the vapor barrier must be placed on the warm side (below the attic insulation). The main problems we find includes incomplete, incorrect placement and vapor barrier that is missing altogether. Really, any opening from the living space below can lead to moisture related problems, depending on the temperature and ventilation in the attic. Some common leakage points include, plumbing attacks, pot lights, vents, ducts and around chimneys. Subsequently, a properly weather-stripped and insulated attic hatch with vapor barrier is one of the best ways to reduce the heat and airflow into the attic.
Ventilation – Proper ventilation is the last piece of the puzzle.  The different types of attic vents include ridge, (at the very top, along the length of the roof peak) roof, soffit, and gable vents. Poor ventilation usually happens as a result of improper installation. One condition I frequently discover is when soffit vents have been blocked by insulation. Other times there are not enough roof vents installed. Ideally, about 50% of the ventilation should be located in the soffit areas.
Again, if the attic ventilation has been obstructed or there is or inadequate ventilation then condensation will take place, leading to mildew, mold and rot damage.
I have also seen other problems in the attic such as broken bathroom vents, laundry exhaust vents discharging into the soffit areas, torn vapor barriers, bee hives and other pests, just to name a few.

Friday, January 18, 2013

What the Heck is PEX


PEX Piping vs. Copper Piping

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If you are like the rest of us non-plumbers, then there is a good chance that you don't know which plumbing pipe is better. You may not even know what a PEX pipe is. Relax: Not many of us do. We're not plumbers, but maybe it's time that increase our basic knowledge so that we know what we are getting and whether it is something we truly want. Once you know the basics, you'll feel more comfortable to find a plumber to help you with your piping needs.
Now you're probably wondering what PEX piping is. Well, it is cross-linked polyethylene pipe. After going through several processes, the material becomes durable for extreme temperatures (hot or cold), creep deformation which happens from long-term exposure to stress, and chemical attack from acids, alkalies and the like. All of this makes PEX an excellent piping substance for hot and cold water systems, especially since PEX is flexible and well adapted for temperatures below freezing all the way up to 200 degrees Fahrenheit.
As mentioned above, PEX is a good plumbing material because it is flexible and easy for plumbers to install. PEX is also resistant to breaks in cold weather and has fewer joints, bringing your costs down.
Since copper piping has been around for decades, we know that the metal is durable and flexible, making it easy to install - especially compared to iron pipes. Copper piping also provides a biostatic atmosphere, making it difficult for bacteria to grow inside of it, which is an important health consideration.
Copper also resists corrosion and is unaffected by ultraviolet rays, which means it can be used for outside needs. This is unlike PEX pipes, which are affected by ultraviolet rays and therefore should not be used outside. However, copper can corrode due to the pH of the water if it is too acidic or too basic for the pipes. But just because it corrodes doesn't mean that the water is bad for you. Try to think of it like this: the Pacific Northwest region of the US and, of course, Canada, has some of the best drinking water in the world, but that very same water has a corrosive effect on the pipes.
The choice between PEX and copper is solely yours, but keep in mind a few of the advantages and disadvantages of each system before you decide.

Advantages of PEX:

  • Adaptable and easy-to-use plumbing system
  • Can be used with hot and cold water
  • Can also be used with metal and PVC piping
  • PEX has fewer fittings, making it faster to install and with less of a chance to leak
  • PEX is more burst-resistant due to its flexibility to expand and contract
  • It has a shutoff valve at each supply line, making it more convenient for you when you have to get repairs done
  • PEX can have a pressure balanced system
  • Since it is flexible, the pipes can be bent around most corners and usually won't need a coupling or fitting

Disadvantages of PEX:

  • It cannot be used outside
  • Cannot be recycled, due to its shorter life use
  • It provides an impermeable membrane that may allow the possibility of water contamination
  • The pipes may be damaged if left outside for a long period of time

Advantages of Copper:

Durable and flexible, making it easy to install Safer in natural disasters Weather and bacteria-resistant Resists corrosion, more so than other metals Unaffected by ultraviolet rays, so it can be used outside Copper does not release toxic gases in a fire because it resists burning In earthquakes, the slightly elastic pipes flex so that they don't snap Copper is recyclable, making it a more sound environmental choice

Disadvantages of Copper Piping

  • Can corrode
  • Has become expensive
  • With higher levels of copper from corrosion, water can have a metallic taste
  • Copper can freeze and break during cold water

Compare the prices of PEX and copper piping to help understand the

differences between the two:


PEX Prices 
3/8" - $0.38
1/2" - $0.40
5/8" - $0.62
3/4" - $0.76
  1" - $1.26

Copper Prices 
3/8" - $4.87
1/2" - $5.67
5/8" - $7.31
3/4" - $10.21
  1" - $13.38

We Asked Plumbers: What do you think about PEX piping when compared to copper piping?
Master Plumber Rick Marquette answered: "There really is no comparison. I like my copper pipe because with PEX pipe, you have to have the right tools. It's convenient if you have all the tools...and that really matters when on a job site. I find copper easier to install because of this, and that is the main difference."
Carol Jones said: "It [PEX] is obviously superior, and easy to install. Copper will break, and then there are all the elbows that must be installed. Every spring, with copper, I have breaks from the cold winters. The polyethylene pipe (PEX) will give a little, so it's not as likely to break as copper. And PEX is faster and easier to install and it is easier to drain the system since each line is independent to the incoming source of water. You can turn off each segment. Copper runs all together and is a lot harder to install since you have to know how to solder, and not everyone knows how. With PEX, the only thing you have to do is buy the expensive crimper, which pays off after having to have the copper fixed every spring because of breakage. PEX is more for do-it-yourselfers and it isn't hard to splice, plus it is cheaper to install."
We hope this gives those non-plumbing homeowners or business owners a basic knowledge and understanding of the difference between PEX piping and copper piping. If you have any other plumbing issues, feel free to visit our online plumbing forum.

BROKEN WINDOW SEALS By Ray Croskrey


Broken Window Seals

You finally decide that you are going to wash those dirty, streaky, hazy looking windows. 
After scrubbing and washing the inside you see that they are still looking quite bad so,
 you rush and do the outside. Still, they look they same as they did when you started.
As you take a closer look you notice that the haziness and streaks are actually inside the panes of glass. You might even see water droplets inside as well. How did this happen and what should be done?
What you see is caused from a failed or broken window seal. Double and triple paned windows and doors are constructed using two or three pieces of glass. In between these pieces of glass is an air space that is enclosed with a seal. This air space is usually filled with a gas such as Argon or krypton. This air space acts as an insulation that reduces the transfer of unwanted losses of warm or cool air inside the house. When the seal eventually cracks or breaks, moisture from the surrounding air is drawn in and will condense on the inside of the glass.
Usually the main reason for a failed window seal is age. Typically a window seal will last around 10 - 15 years. This all depends on the manufacturing quality, and how much stress or abuse the window is subjected to during its life.
Factors that aid in the deterioration of a window seal include:
- Pressure changes caused from hot and cold weather.
- Building settlement.
- Movement from opening and closing.
- Objects hitting the window (balls, birds, etc.).
- Pressure washing.
- Deteriorating frameworks.
Unfortunately, once you have a window with a broken seal there is nothing you can do except replace it. Besides the obvious visual impairment, a broken window seal will not significantly affect the insulating factors to any noticeable degree.
Here are some things you can do to help prolong the life of your windows.
Give your windows an inspection about once or twice every year. Look for any signs of aging or defects. If you have deteriorating outer perimeter seals, you can simply apply a bead of caulk around the edges to keep water from coming in contact with the sash. To keep a wooden window frame from becoming rotten, make sure it has a good coat of paint. If you have windows that get a lot of sun exposure, consider putting up window awnings or outdoor shades. Also make sure the windows get good air circulation indoors and out. This will help keep outer condensation levels to a minimum thus reducing the chances of mold development.
If you decide to replace a window or two, do a bit of research. Find a company that offers a good warranty plan. Most of the higher quality windows now days offer a 10-20 year and even life time warranty.