Protect Your Property From Power Surges

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Maybe you know this story: There’s a thunderstorm. Lightning strikes nearby. The power cuts out for a moment, then returns.

But when you try to switch on the TV, it doesn’t seem to work.

In the United States, power surges are responsible for hundreds of millions of dollars of property damage every year. Surges can instantly overload and short out the circuitry of home electronics.

Over time, surges can also cause cumulative damage to your property, incrementally decreasing the lifespan of televisions, computers, stereo equipment, and anything else plugged into the wall.

Learning more about surges – what causes them and how to prevent them – can help save money and keep your property safe.

How Does A Power Surge Cause Damage?

In the United States, most homes use electrical power in the form of 120-volt, 60 Hz, single phase, alternating current.

However, the voltage is not delivered at a constant 120 volts. With alternating current, the voltage rises and falls in a predetermined rhythm. The voltage oscillates from 0 to a peak voltage of 169 volts. Most appliances and electronics used in the United States are designed to be powered by this form of generated electricity.

During a power surge, the voltage exceeds the peak voltage of 169 volts.

A spike in voltage can be harmful to appliances and electrical devices in your home. An increase in voltage above an appliance's normal operating voltage can cause an arc of electrical current within the appliance. The heat generated in the arc causes damage to the electronic circuit boards and other electrical components.

Smaller, repeated power surges may slowly damage your electronic equipment, too. Your computer or stereo may continue to function after small surges occur until the integrity of the electronic components finally erode and your television, cordless phone, or answering machine mysteriously stops working. Repeated, small power surges shorten the life of appliances and electronics.

Where Do Power Surges Come From?

There are several sources of power surges. They can originate from the electric utility company during power grid switching. A common cause of power surges – especially the most powerful surges – is lightning. Power surges can originate inside a home when large appliances like air conditioners and refrigerator motors turn on and off.

Power surges can enter a home through several pathways. In the case of lightning, it can take the path of the cable TV or satellite dish cable, through the incoming telephone lines, or through the incoming electrical service line.

How Can I Protect My Property?

Point-Of-Use Surge Protection Devices (SPDs), combined with a good grounding system, should protect your electronic and electrical appliances from most electrical surges. An SPD does not suppress or arrest a surge; it actually diverts the surge to the ground.

One familiar point-of-use surge suppressor looks like a regular plug strip. However, unless it specifically says so, don’t assume your plug strip offers surge protection.

You can also install special electrical outlets that offer surge protection. Surge protection outlets are useful in locations where there isn't room for a plug-in surge protector, such as near a countertop microwave oven.

The Two-Tiered Approach

Point-of-use devices can protect particular appliances in your home, but a more comprehensive approach to surge protection is to combine point-of-use devices with another device, like a service entrance surge protector or an electrical panel surge protector. By installing two tiers of surge protection, you’ll be able to protect your home from all but the most powerful surges.

Service Entrance Surge Protection Devices usually mount in or on your main electrical panel or at the base of the electric meter. Using a service entrance surge protection device provides protection for your entire electrical system; they protect things such as motors, lights, outlets, light switches, and all the other "hard wired" items in the house that do not plug into an electrical outlet and can't be connected to a point-of-use surge protection device. And if the power surge is created by a lightning strike or power fluctuation on the utility lines, the service entrance surge protection device can reduce the power surge to a lower level before it gets to the point-of-use surge protection device.

Service entrance surge protection devices will either be Transient Volt Surge Suppressors (TVSSs) or secondary surge arresters. It’s difficult to compare the capabilities of a TVSS to a secondary surge arrester because the two are tested differently. Consult an electrician for further advice on how to install a service entrance surge suppression device.

More To Consider

• Make sure any surge protectors you purchase are listed as UL Standard 1449. This is a national benchmark and means the product has been thoroughly tested.
• Select a point-of-use surge protector that has an indicating light and/or audible alarm to show when it needs a replacement.
• Look for SPDs that come with a manufacturer's warranty. Some warranties cover only the device; others also cover any damaged equipment connected to the device.
• Direct lightning strikes are powerful enough to overwhelm even the best surge protection; that said, the ultimate surge protection is to unplug equipment from the wall if you suspect a surge might be coming.

Information here was taken from State Farm Insurance

FOUNDATION ISSUES

UNDERSTANDING FOUNDATION PROBLEMS

Most homebuyers are careful to have a home inspector check for foundation problems before they sign purchase papers. But that shouldn’t be the last check. Recognizing early warning signs of trouble can forestall damage that costs tens of thousands of dollars or even jeopardizes the full value of a house. Luckily, some of the warning signs are easy to spot. Here’s what to look for.

 Inside hints

A floor that’s not level is one tip of a possible foundation problem. Some people can sense this easily; others never notice even when a floor sags a couple of inches.

If you’re in the latter group, there are other ways to hear your house whispering that the foundation is rising or sinking unevenly: A door begins to jam or fails to latch; cracks appear in walls, especially over doorways or windows or where walls meet ceilings; cracks open in vinyl or ceramic tile over a concrete floor. Windows that fail to budge or to close completely also hint at foundation problems, assuming the culprit isn’t just sloppy or sticky paint or rotten wood frames.

Slab foundation problems

If you have a slab foundation, a structural engineer can help determine whether these signs point to normal settling or to structural damage. Expect to pay $500-$700 for a structural engineer to inspect your foundation and provide an evaluation, and as much as $2,000 for a full set of drawings for an engineered solution.

If it’s a structural problem, your foundation is settling unevenly and has the potential to skew or pull apart the framing unless you take action. Best case: You can get the house level again just by keeping soil near the house evenly moist, either by irrigating during dry weather if you live in a damp climate or by switching to landscaping that doesn’t need irrigating if you live where it’s usually dry.

Worst case: You need to underpin the foundation with helical screws or concrete piers. Installation costs $1,200-$1,500 per pier, with one every 6 to 8 feet.

Outside, take the long view

Moving outside, check to see if your foundation is straight by sighting down the length of your foundation wall from each corner. You should see a straight line. A bulge or divot in either a block foundation or a poured concrete wall could signal that the foundation has shifted.

Check for leaning walls with a level. If the top of the foundation sticks out beyond the walls in one area, the foundation wall may have tipped. Any signs of shifting or bowing means that the soil may be expanding and contracting, putting pressure on foundation walls, and remedial steps are necessary.

The poke test

If your house has a poured perimeter foundation and it appears to be shedding sand, poke it in a few places with a sturdy screwdriver. The concrete should be so dense and hard that you do no damage. If you can excavate a hole, the concrete could be deteriorating because the mix contained dirty or salty sand, or too much water. This problem, common in homes built in the early 1900s in some parts of the country, has no remedy short of a new foundation, perhaps a $35,000 prospect.

Checking crawl spaces

In the basement or crawl space, look for foundation problems that may include a system of posts and concrete supports, or piers. Posts should stand straight and be firmly planted underneath the beams they support. Bottoms of posts should rest firmly on concrete piers.

You shouldn’t find puddles or see framing that’s wet. Check for rot by probing wood posts with a screwdriver or awl.

Puddles and other signs of moisture in a crawl space may indicate poor drainage around the perimeter foundation. Be sure that gutters aren’t plugged, and that soil slopes away from the foundation at the rate of 6 inches for every 10 horizontal feet.

Reading cracks

Concrete and block foundations usually have at least a few cracks. The trick is recognizing which are insignificant and which are serious.

As concrete cures, it shrinks slightly. Where the concrete can’t shrink evenly, it tends to crack. Cracks where there is an L-shape section, such as where a foundation stairsteps down to follow a hillside, are probably shrinkage cracks, especially if they meander and taper down to a hairline. These aren’t a structural issue, though you might need to plug them to keep the basement or crawl space dry. Hairline cracks in the mortar between concrete blocks are also rarely worth worrying about.

If you find small cracks (less than 1/16-inch wide), paint over them with a concrete waterproofing paint (about $25 a gallon). Then check periodically to see whether the paint has cracked, which means the gap is opening up under pressure.

Stairstep cracks in masonry joints are a bigger concern, especially if the wall is bulging or the crack is wider than ¼ inch. A plugged gutter or other moisture problem outside is probably exerting pressure on that part of the wall. You’ll need a structural engineer to help identify a cure, which can include bolting on steel braces ($500-$700 each, often spaced about 6 feet apart along the wall) or using epoxy to glue on straps of carbon-fiber mesh ($350-$450 each, similarly spaced). 

Horizontal cracks are most serious, and indicate that water-saturated soil outside froze and expanded, pushing in and breaking the foundation. Perhaps gutters backed up and heat was off for an extended period during especially cold weather. The consequence: You probably need a whole new foundation.

Horizontal cracks also occur because of problems with underlying soil. If you have soil that expands when damp and shrinks when dry, you face the same range of solutions as if you had a slab foundation. Hire a structural engineer to help you sort out your options.

Effective Water Management

 

Effective water management is essential in keeping your home dry. Improper slope or clogged gutters can lead to a leaky basement. Hopefully by the end of this short writing you’ll have a better understanding of how to keep water out of your home.

First off let’s talk about your gutter system. Keep them free of debris and make sure the downspouts drain far enough away from your house. You should either clean out your gutters several times a year or put on gutter guards to prevent leaves and debris from filling your gutters. If you don’t you can have water overflow the gutters back behind them and possibly into your home. Also make sure your downspouts don’t empty directly next to your foundation. You want to divert that water away from your home not next to the foundation where it might have the chance to seep into your basement. Adding downspout extensions will divert the water away from the foundation and help keep your basement dry.

If the soil around your house is sloped towards your home then water won’t flow properly away from your house, it will have a chance to possibly come into your basement. Make sure that the soil slopes away from the structure at least 6 inches in the first 10 feet. Having more slope is a good thing to get that water away from your home. Also make sure there aren’t any places where water can sit near your foundation. Adding soil as necessary will help give you that proper slope.

Properly diverting water away from the structure at the exterior is always the best way for properly managing water. Adding a French drain to the outside of your house can effectively manage water in those areas where proper slope is almost impossible to achieve. Remember you always want to stop moisture before it gets in so adding any type of water intrusion system to the interior of the structure is not your best course of action. Manage the water from the outside and it won’t have a chance to get to the interior.

More Ventilation

Part 2

 

By now you’re wondering what that last blog has to do with home inspections. Quite a bit actually. Most inspectors get up on to the roof if they can to be able, to tell the condition of the shingles. If the shingles are aged prematurely a home inspector has an good indication that something further is going on. 

 

Inspectors look for signs of moisture throughout the home. Most signs of moisture come from a leak from somewhere, like a leaky faucet. But sometimes an inspector will note a mold like substance in a closet with no apparent source of leaking. Sometimes moisture from washing machine, dish washers and even breathing can collect in different areas and condense on the walls. This moisture gives mold a chance to grow. When an attic is under ventilated or has too much insulation, we as home inspectors know we may find additional issues with moisture in the home.

 

Most inspectors will also get up into the attic and determine how much insulation is present, if it is installed properly and if there is plenty of ventilation. Improperly installed insulation, such as a kraft paper faced insulation installed with its facing upward can trap moisture underneath of it and promote mold growth. Also, blown in insulation that is blown covering soffit vents can lead to heat buildup and possibly damaged shingles. Home inspectors also look for the proper amount of insulation. In our area we should have at least a R-38. What is R-value? R-value is simply the resistance to heat flow. The higher the R-value the greater the insulating effectiveness it has. Each type of insulation, from batts to blown in insulation has its own R-value so make sure to follow the manufacturers’ instruction when adding new insulation. Here is a link to an interactive guide on how much insulation you may need in you area.

 

An attic may not seem like a very important area, especially since most home owners will never see it. But as you can tell by this reading, an attic contains some very important components of your house. If an inspector doesn’t, at a bare minimum, open up that attic hatch and poke his or head up there is doing their client a big disservice. Inspectors will also be looking at plumbing, electrical, and structural members.

Understanding proper ventilation in a home can be a daunting task. Even professionals will argue about the best way to properly vent attic spaces. You may be wondering why attics need to be properly vented. There are several reasons for properly venting an attic and we hope by the end of this writing you’ll have a better understanding.

First, let’s start off with how proper ventilation can help with heat transfer. In an improperly vented attic on a nice hot day heat will build up on the roof surface high as 170 degrees and that heat will transfer into the attic space. This can raise the attic temperature to 140 degrees or more.  In an inadequately vented attic all of that heat can then transfer down into the living space raising the temperature to an uncomfortable level and that will cause your utility rates to go up as you try to counter this by using air conditioners and fans. In order for your attic to be properly vented you will need balanced airflow. That means you will need the same proportion of intake and exhaust vents. Proper airflow will help cool the underside of the roof helping with the heat transfer but it won’t completely eliminate it. Oddly enough newer home with heavy insulation the effect of heat transfer is magnified. Heavy insulation holds more heat and the best solution is to have a properly designed ventilation system to handle the extra heat. Taking out insulation can negatively you and your home at other times of the year.

Next, improper ventilation can affect your roof itself. You’re probably asking how a lack of vents can affect the shingles. As heat builds up in the attic that heat can cause your shingles to warp and distort over time. This will lead to premature aging of your roof and replacing a roof can be a significant cost.

This next one is something that almost no one will think of. Every time we cook or take a shower or bath, every time we wash clothes or dishes and even every time we breathe we put moisture into our home. Now what does that have to do with an improperly vented attic? A lot actually. An average family of four can put 2-4 gallons of water vapor into the air per day! That moisture vapor will naturally rise into the attic space and in improperly vented attics that vapor will condense onto the insulation, joists and even the sheetrock. All that moisture can lead to damaged wood, compressed insulation and sometimes even mold.

We'll discuss more ventilation issues later. But keep in mind, a well ventilated home is a much healthier home.

For more information, you can log on to our web site at www.thejardineoffice.com or simply call Matthew or Hank at 314-308-6489.

How Often Should You Check Your Home?

Checking your own house periodically can prevent disasters

Home inspectors use all of their senses when inspecting a house. An experienced inspector can draw several conclusions within the first few minutes of a home inspection. Actually, as soon as we pull up to a house, we can pretty well determine what we are in for. Many of the problems we see and report on could have been avoided. Here are some things you can (and should) do periodically to maintain your house.

At least once every six months, take some time to care for your prized investment – your house. Pick a quiet time of the day when the kids are away, no gardeners are blowing leaves, and you have about half an hour of free time. Turn off the radio, iPod or TV. Quietly walk around the interior of your house and listen. Really listen for drips, leaking water, and running toilets.
One common source of leaks is in the toilet tank. If you hear running water it is usually caused by one of three things; a high water level, a worn flapper, or a worn valve.

Brittle Flapper

The simplest problem is when the level of the water is set too high. You will see water pouring over the top of the spill tube. Adjust the float to shut the water off before the level goes over the top of this tube. If you still hear water trickling at the toilet when the valve has stopped, your flapper valve may be worn out. Over time the flapper valve becomes brittle. It will no longer create a good seal and water trickles through. This constant flow of water can cause a lot of problems. It can deteriorate the wax seal under the toilet which leads to floor damage. It can also cost you money because tens or hundreds of gallons of water per month are going down the drain. One telltale sign of a worn flapper is “phantom-flushing”. That’s when your toilet mysteriously fills with water periodically by itself. Flappers are inexpensive and easy to replace. We recommend replacing all of them throughout the house at the same time.  If the water continues to flow after changing the flapper and adjusting the level, the valve itself may be bad or your water pressure is too high. Flush the toilet and observed the water flow. If it is spraying really hard, or if the valve whines when shutting off your pressure regulator may have failed. Call a plumber or buyer a pressure gauge  and have it checked. If the water pressure appears normal (50 – 80 psi max) then your toilet fill valve may be worn and requires replacement. Changing the toilet fill valve is fairly easy and a reasonable do-it-yourself project. You’ll also want to listen for dripping tub and shower faucets. Again this wastes water, but it can also rust out components in the tub and drain.

Tub Drain

  Fixing this might be beyond the average homeowner. So get a plumber to do it. It will save you money in the long run.

Your water heater can cause a lot of trouble particularly if it is more than 10 years old. If the water heater pops or gurgles when it is heating water, replace it. This indicates pending failure and poor efficiency. You are hearing sediment at the bottom of the tank. Over the years, sediment from the water and the rusting tank settles at the bottom. This layer of gunk acts as an insulating layer. When your water heater tries to heat water, the flame must stay on longer to heat the water. By the way, simply flushing your water heater once a year can prevent this. To wrap up your plumbing inspection, check all of the valves under the sinks, at your clothes washer and behind the toilet. These valves

Corroded Valve

commonly fail, and can flood your house. If you find valves that have excessive calcium build-up, have them replaced immediately. We recommend changing them all even if you find one that is deteriorated. The others will follow.

Another item that should be checked periodically is your electric panel. Now if you have any concerns about your electrical system you should not do this yourself. Rather, call an electrician. But if your electric panel is in good condition open the lid and listen for buzzing breakers. You can also gently rest your hand on the breakers to see if they are excessively hot. If either of these conditions

GFCI receptacle

exists you should have your panel checked. Your GFCI receptacles must also be checked periodically. They have a built-in test button. Go ahead and test them. If they do not trip, or reset, they need to be replaced.

There are many other items that should be checked at your house including the roof, windows, garage door, heating and AC system, and appliances. Plumbing and electrical systems cause the most problems. Most home inspectors will provide a maintenance inspection for homeowners. It is a good idea to have your house inspected periodically. Catching some of these items early can save you money in the long run.

The Jardine AmeriSpec Office
www.thejardineoffice.com
hjardine@amerispec.net
314-308-6489

Born in a Barn?

Were you born in a barn and brought up outdoors?

This was a question I was asked frequently as a kid. Kids have little concept of hot and cold---let alone what it takes to heat a home.  Leaving doors open as they run outside is common.  It always has been common, and probably always will be common.

But doors and windows are not the only thing that wastes energy when they are left open.

As an inspector, one of the most common things I find left open on a home is the fireplace damper. When the wind blows past the top of the chimney it creates a negative pressure on the chimney resulting in drawing huge amounts of conditioned air out of the home---especially if windows and doors are left open.

This is incredibly wasteful in both summer and winter when we are expending energy to either heat or cool the home.

I would bet that more than 50% of older style fireplaces that I inspect have their damper open at the time of inspection.  Of course modern fireplaces have glass doors that help with this problem.  Most likely the best solution is a gas insert that will actually contribute to the heating of the home instead of making your house more like a barn.

Do you know if your fireplace damper is open or closed right now?

For a home inspection or just have questions, please call us at 314-308-6489 or visit our website at www.thejardineoffice.com

Simple Radon Explanation

What the heck is Radon and why should we be concerned if it found a home? 

It seems like there are so many scientific explanations of radon and they seem too complicated for me to understand, almost. I wanted to explain what radon is and why it's important.

This may sound too simple but as the rocks under a home get older they emit a a radioactive isotope called Radon 222 or 220. The radioactive materials from the rocks creep into our homes through cracks in the concrete, around plumbing pipes going through the concrete and from sump pits among other venues around the home. Radon gas is heavier than air, so it typically will pool in a basement or crawl space. 

Let's face it, our homes are built over rocks, which allows radon to enter all homes at some time or another. The age of the house doesn't matter, the rocks are there first, so even new homes can have radon entering them. That means that even new homes could put people at risk to breathing in the radon gas. In St. Louis and St. Charles County Radon levels on an average is here . All this is depending the rocks and how much uranium happens to be in those rocks under your home. The more uranium, the better the chance you may have higher levels of Radon in your home. 

I used a measurement term, pCi/l, it's how Radon is measured. How much Radon is in a cubic foot of air is all this measurement is. Because the half loss time or how long the Radon lives before disappearing is about 48 hours we find a minimum test should be 48 hours. During the test, Radon is measured in a cubic foot of air over the test period. What's in a home today and tomorrow is replaced by more Radon every day.

Radon can be removed. There are systems that remove the gas before it enters the home. Suggest clients check out several companies before making the decision to choose a company. There is a list of Certified Companies here.

We would love to help even if you just need information. You can call us at 314-308-6489 or go to our website by clicking here.

Low Water Pressure

Low water pressure is a common complaint that we hear often, especially in older homes.   Water pressure is a subjective subject, good water pressure for one may not be good pressure for someone else.  We will try to clear up a few misconceptions on water pressure as it relates to the residential plumbing system and the correlation between pressure and flow. 

Low water flow to fixtures in the home can be caused by numerous factors.  Often times the low pressure at a faucet is caused by low water flow throughout the homes plumbing supply system.  If there isn’t a large enough supply of water to the supply system there is no way to get adequate pressure to the individual faucets or fixtures.  For example, a 3/4″ water supply pipe that is feeding four faucets at the same time will not produce the same amount of pressure at the faucet as a 1 1/4″ supply pipe connected to the same plumbing system.

The first things we need to look at when diagnosing low flow are the water pressure into the home and the size of the main water supply pipe into the home.  Plumbing code in most areas state that the water pressure into the home should be a stabilized 40 to 80 PSI (Pounds per Square Inch).

With all faucets and fixtures turned off, the water pressure should be recorded.  If the pressure is within the normal range, this indicates that the water pressure into the home is adequate.  The problem is mostly likely a flow problem and not a pressure problem.

If the pressure is below the normal range, you have isolated the problem to a water pressure problem.  There are numerous things that could cause this low water pressure.

Examples of low water pressure cause:

• Low pressure from utility
• Leak in a water supply pipe
• Partially closed shutoff valve
• Mineral buildup in pipes

One common misconception is that increasing the water pressure into the home will drastically increase the water flow at the faucets.  While this can sometimes help, it can be at the expense of the components in the plumbing system.  Pressure over 80 PSI can cause numerous problems with faucets, water hammer, pipe joints etc.

If the water pressure is good and you still have low water pressure to individual water faucets the problem could be harder to repair.  There are a few reasons you could be having low water flow to the faucets:

Examples of reasons for low water flow:

• Diameter of water main too small
• Water supply pipes clogged with minerals
• Leak in supply pipes
• Shutoff valve partially closed for that faucet

If these issues are found we suggest contacting a licensed plumber here in the St. Louis Area. 

To contact us, please call us at 314-308-6489

or email at hjardine@amerispec.net

www.thejardineoffice.com 

Dryer Vent Safety

We know that Dryer Vent safety is important, but do you know why? The following information should give you some insight as to why this innocent appliance.        The How’s and Whys of a Dryer Fire    A clothes dryer works by forcing hot air through a turning drum. Wet clothes placed in the drum are then dried by the moving hot air. It is possible for a full load of wet clothes to contain as much as one and a half gallons of water. Lint is created from the clothes as the water is removed and the clothes dry. While much of the lint is trapped by the dryer's filter, lint also is carried through the venting system, together with moist air.  The accumulation of lint, both in the dryer and in the dryer vent, reduces the airflow and creates a highly flammable fuel source. In addition to the accumulation of lint, blockage in dryer exhaust vents also can occur from the nests of small birds and animals or from bends in the venting system itself. A compromised vent will not exhaust properly to the outside. Overheating may result. If enough heat is produced to ignite the lint itself or nearby combustible items, such as the clothes in the dryer or combustibles left nearby, the engineered safety mechanisms are compromised and fire ensues. Leading Factors Contributing to Residential Building Dryer Fires Proper maintenance for clothes dryers involves removing the lint from the traps, vents, and surrounding areas of the dryer. Not unexpectedly, the leading factor contributing to ignition for dryer fires is operation deficiencies - specifically "failure to clean." Failure to clean accounts for 70% of dryer fire operational deficiency contributing factors. Other leading factors contributing to dryer fires include "mechanical failure," "electrical failure," and "misuse of material or product." A clothes dryer that has to work harder to evacuate lint and moisture can trigger enough heat to cause some dryer components to malfunction and can sometimes produce sparks or even flames. The overheating can sometimes produce enough heat to ignite lint or other nearby combustibles.    Clothes Dryer Venting Systems For optimal venting the exhaust should vent directly outside the house. Flexible foil vents are not the best choice for venting clothes dryers and really not recommended. Flexible vents can sag, allowing lint to build up and catch on fire if it comes in contact with a sufficient amount of heat. If a fire starts beneath the dryer when the motor overheats, then the drafts from the dryer can pull that fire up into the duct and venting allowing a house fire to develop. Using smooth sided metal vents is much safer and is recommended. Conclusion In most cases, clothes dryer fires can be prevented. "Failure to clean" is the number one factor contributing to clothes dryer fires, followed by mechanical and electrical failure. Clogged dryer vents occurring from lint buildup may make the dryer operate incorrectly and raise the temperature of the dryer machinery high enough to ignite lint or nearby combustibles. The exhaust vent should be as short as possible and have limited bends to allow sufficient airflow. Improper items placed in the dryer, such as plastic, foam, or other synthetic materials also can increase the risk of fire. Make sure to follow the recommended safety tips for operating clothes dryers safely. The photo below is a clogged dryer vent just waiting to be a hazard.    In particular, by following installation guidelines and performing regular inspections on dryer vents, consumers can protect themselves further from clothes dryer fires. Depending on the frequency of use, how long the vent is, or the age and type of dryer used, dryer vents need inspection on average every 2 to 3 years. If you do not feel comfortable cleaning or inspecting the dryer vent yourself, you can call a duct cleaning service.

Just a thought

Did you ever wonder about Federal Pacific Electrical Panels? Ever wonder why some inspectors recommend their replacement? We thought we would share some information regarding the FPE so you will have a better understanding of the problems associated with these types of Electrical Panels.

Federal Pacific Electrical Stab-Lok Panels were used from the 50's to the early 80's. After years of use, electricians and most home inspectors found FPE panels failed to protect the homeowners and their families. They appeared to work as intended, but if one over current or short circuit occurred it was found they could become fire hazards and overheat.

There was a class action lawsuit and a New Jersey State Court found that the FPE Company had " violated the Consumer Fraud Act because FPE knowingly and purposely distributed circuit breakers which were not tested to meet UL standards...." An expert who investigated the potential hazards of these panels stated that under UL 489 test conditions, the FPE panels failed trip to at a much higher rate than other panels.

The whole point having an electrical panel is for the circuit breaker or fuse to trip and and stop the current. This may not happen with a Federal Pacific Panel.

When The Jardine AmeriSpec Office professionals are inspecting a home with an FPE, we always recommend a licensed electrician review the panel for safety. For more information click here and go to our website.