What is a Broken Seal in Windows

WHAT IS DOUBLE-GLAZING?

Double-glazed doors and windows are made up of two sealed sheets of glass with an insulating void between them. This gap is either in the form of a vacuum, or more commonly, filled with a heavy inert gas such as argon. Together, the panes of glass and the void between them are very effective at preventing heat loss – in fact the U-value for a new double glazed window can be as low as 1.7, while a single glazed window in comparison has a u-value closer to 5.

However, overtime the effectiveness of the double-glazing can wane, especially if the seal goes around one of the panes of glass allowing air to replace either the vacuum or the inert gas between the panes.

The most common side effect of a seal going is that the window will fog up, as water vapour condenses on the inside surface of the window. So once you start describing your windows as foggy, misty or steamy when you try to look through them – it means that the seals have failed, or at least have started to fail.

WHY HAVE MY DOUBLE-GLAZING SEALS BECOME DAMAGED?

This can happen due to a number of reasons, however the most common tends to be general wear and tear as the double-glazing unit ages. Continuous changes in temperature cause fluctuations in the sizes of the glazed unit, since they expand in the warmth and contract in the cold, and over time this can loosen and damage the seals.

Particularly strong cleaning products can also sometimes eat away at the seal, so even though we all like being able to see through a really clean windows, make sure the cleaning product you are using is not chemically abrasive.

Other reasons for your double-glazing unit failing include faulty installations or faulty production methods, however on the whole these should be covered by your window installer, so it is key to make sure you keep your FENSA certificate and a receipt of any work carried out.

As the perimeter seal goes, then this moisture will start to enter the double-glazing unit. Normally there is a silica strip within the void, that absorbs small amounts of moisture and separates the glazing units, however, as soon as this becomes saturated the condensation rapidly increases leading to it misting up the entire unit.

It is possible to reseal your damaged double glazed windows and there are many sources on the Internet that will tell you how to do it yourself. However, to be honest we are pretty against this.

In the first instance, give your double-glazing installer a call. Most double-glazing companies will not attempt to reseal a window fitted by another company, however if you can get hold of the original installer, you may find that they charge a fraction of the price for resealing, compared with replacing the whole window unit.

The true fix though is sadly also the most expensive – simply replacing the window unit altogether. To be honest this is definitely not the most cost effective fix – replacing any form of double glazing (working or not) with a new double-glazing unit will obviously allow you to see through the window and it will have some impact on energy efficiency, however the energy savings you will make will go no where near to covering the installation costs.

However if the view out of your window is your pride of joy, unfortunately you only have one choice and that is to pay for a replacement. We really do recommend getting hold of the original installer if you can though, since they might be able to re-seal it or offer you a repeat-order discount.

WHAT ABOUT WARRANTIES?

Whatever you do, check to see if you have a warranty/guarantee left of the windows. If you do and the windows are still showing signs of inner pane condensation, then presume that the cause was faulty installation and you may be able to replace them free of charge using the same company. However, if the warranty has expired then expect wear and tear to be the main contributor, and brace yourself for the replacement of double glazed units.

Air Conditioners

One of the most common air conditioning problems is improper operation. If your air conditioner is on, be sure to close your home's windows and outside doors. For room air conditioners, isolate the room or a group of connected rooms as much as possible from the rest of your home.

Other common problems with existing air conditioners result from faulty installation, poor service procedures, and inadequate maintenance. Improper installation of a central air conditioner can result in leaky ducts and low airflow. Many times, the refrigerant charge (the amount of refrigerant in the system) does not match the manufacturer's specifications. If proper refrigerant charging is not performed during installation, the performance and efficiency of the unit is impaired. Unqualified service technicians often fail to find refrigerant charging problems or even worsen existing problems by adding refrigerant to a system that is already full. Learn what to ask for when hiring a technician to maintain your air conditioner.

Air conditioner manufacturers generally make rugged, high quality products. If your air conditioner fails, begin by checking any fuses or circuit breakers. Let the unit cool down for about five minutes before resetting any breakers. If a central air conditioner's compressor stops on a hot day, the high-pressure limit switch may have tripped; reset it by pushing the button, located in the compressor's access panel.

REFRIGERANT LEAKS

If your air conditioner is low on refrigerant, either it was undercharged at installation or it leaks. If it leaks, simply adding refrigerant is not a solution. A trained technician should fix any leak, test the repair, and then charge the system with the correct amount of refrigerant. Remember that the performance and efficiency of your air conditioner is greatest when the refrigerant charge exactly matches the manufacturer's specification, and is neither undercharged nor overcharged. Refrigerant leaks can also be harmful to the environment.

INADEQUATE MAINTENANCE

If you allow filters and air conditioning coils to become dirty, the air conditioner will not work properly, and the compressor or fans are likely to fail prematurely.

ELECTRIC CONTROL FAILURE

The compressor and fan controls can wear out, especially when the air conditioner turns on and off frequently, as is common when a system is oversized. Because corrosion of wire and terminals is also a problem in many systems, electrical connections and contacts should be checked during a professional service call.

SENSOR PROBLEMS

Room air conditioners feature a thermostat sensor, located behind the control panel, which measures the temperature of air coming into the evaporative coil. If the sensor is knocked out of position, the air conditioner could cycle constantly or behave erratically. The sensor should be near the coil but not touching it; adjust its position by carefully bending the wire that holds it in place.

DRAINAGE PROBLEMS

When it's humid outside, check the condensate drain to make sure it isn't clogged and is draining properly. Room air conditioners may not drain properly if not mounted level.

Home Inspection Tips

There are some home maintenance and repair issues that, given a choice, most property owners are likely to procrastinate, whether because they take time, cost money, or just don't seem all that urgent.

If it's not an entirely apparent or nagging issue, it might take some time to be addressed. But some of the most serious problems hide masked behind a beautiful facade and could turn any dream home into a nightmare on Elm Street.

The following are some top structural and mechanical time bombs that experts say have the potential to blow up in order to spot and squelch them in a own home, before the big boom.

Foundation

A small crack in the brick veneer on the exterior of their home is no big deal, right? Not always. What looks like it can be solved with a cosmetic fix can sometimes indicate a deeper problem with moving foundation.

Hire a structural engineer immediately to evaluate a home's foundation. If caught early, a repair might only cost a few thousand, but if it's too late homeowners are looking at one of the most expensive home repair jobs possible with a whopping $50,000 price tag.

Roof

A roof can appear completely fine from the front while still crumbling elsewhere. That's why most people end up making the tragic mistake of waiting until they see water leaking through the ceiling to identify roofing issues.

Water usually enters the attic first, so regularly inspect for stains around the chimney and vents. To be on the safe side, have a roof inspected every five years.

Septic system

Many rural homeowners rely on septic tanks for their sewage systems, which operate by breaking down solids and liquefying them. That liquid then goes out into the lines and is dispersed into the surrounding ground.

While extremely useful, these tanks are also highly susceptible to clogs from other materials, like cigarette butts and food waste. Save the cost of digging up the yard to repair the whole system and opt for a cheaper maintenance alternative: regularly pumping the tank every three-to-five years, checking for signs of clogs and leaks routinely between inspections

Old electrical system

Homes built prior to World War II didn't have to meet the same requirements for power that are now a standard in home construction of recent years. With all of this generation's high-tech amenities, older wiring just can't handle today's electrical demands.

Sockets and switches can wear out, breakers grow less reliable as they age and heavy use of extension cords could lead to a fire. Squelch worry about these larger problems with a thorough electrical system inspection every 20 years. If a home doesn't meet the code, people will want to replace the entire electrical system to avoid a major fire hazard.

Crawl space

When it comes to maintenance and repair, the out-of-the-way and untraveled crawl space is one of the most overlooked areas of the home. But because the crawl space is like the window into the belly of a home, it could also hold the key to revealing any number of problems before they get bigger and expand to other areas: weakening floors, termite damage, and even issues with heating and cooling ducts.

Grab a flashlight and routinely take a peek at this so-often storage spot; even call in a home inspector, if looking for a second opinion.

Furnace, HVAC unit

When someone's heating goes, the only real fix it is to replace the furnace, which will cost upwards of $6,000. But keep up maintenance on a current unit about every six months and they won't need to break into emergency savings.

Hire an HVAC professional to come and inspect everything to make sure the system is running smoothly. Another easy way to improve air quality, efficiency and extend the life of a unit is to replace the filter at least every 90 days, or less, if people have allergies or pets.

Deck

Building a deck is sure to boost the value to a home, but if homeowners don't keep up with maintenance, their piece of curb appeal could unexpectedly fall apart.

While deck maintenance runs roughly $100 a year, the average cost of replacing it from the ground up is closer to $10,000. Save big bucks by simply keeping it clean, re-securing any nails, and reapplying sealant as needed.

A full inspection at least once a year will help people determine what work looks necessary and catch any early signs of rot.

                  Good information from The American Society of Home Inspectors

How Serious is a Cracked Heat Exchanger?

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By Reuben Saltzman

It's an industry standard: if a furnace has a cracked heat exchanger, it gets replaced.  The American Gas Association has even put this in writing - they say "Any visible crack or hole is reason for requiring replacement of the heat exchanger or furnace."  When I inspect a furnace and I find a cracked heat exchanger (and I find a lot of them), I always say to replace it.

So what's the big deal with cracks or holes?  A cracked heat exchanger could allow exhaust gas from the furnace to contaminate the household air with carbon monoxide.   In order for this to happen, the furnace must be producing high levels of carbon monoxide AND the exhaust gas must be mixing with the household air.  For a good example of a hazardous heat exchanger, check out the photo below showing a large rust hole in the heat exchanger of this high-efficiency furnace that was only ten years old.

Cracks, on the other hand, I'm not so sure about.  With the majority of the cracked heat exchangers that I've seen, I've always been curious how the exhaust gas from the furnace could possibly leak out of those tiny cracks enough to contaminate the househouse air.  Of course, what I'm curious about doesn't matter... but sometimes my curiosity gets the best of me, and I have to find out for myself.

So I did. I took home a furnace that had a cracked heat exchanger, tore it apart, and removed the heat exchanger cell that had the largest cracks.  You can see the cracks for yourself below - click on any of the photos for a larger version.  This first photo shows the cracks as seen from inside the heat exchanger cell - this is what we saw during our inspection.

I wanted to see if water would leak through these cracks, so I doused the outside of the heat exchanger and looked inside for any signs of leakage.  Nothing. I've heard that penetrating oil, such as WD40, will get through the cracks, so I tried that next.  Nothing. Feeling pretty disappointed at this point and determined to get some results, I filled the heat exchanger with water.  I laughed like a mad scientist at what happened next.

Water began to leak out of the factory seam in about ten different places, but the crack never leaked.

Why does this tiny crack mean the furnace should be replaced?  Because the American Gas Association says so.  Don't argue. 

Apparently, when heat exchangers get very hot the metal expands and the cracks open up, allowing air to leak in to or out of the heat exchanger.  Just because my test didn't allow any water to leak doesn't mean that this furnace was safe, and it doesn't mean that a different furnace will behave the same way... but I sure found it amusing.

Winterizing Your Sidewalks and Driveways

As a homeowner, there will always be tasks that need to be done at least once a year. When was the last time you really looked at your sidewalk and driveway? Are there any cracks? Are there any weeds growing through those cracks? Winter moisture in the form of snow and rain can worsen existing cracks in pavement. With some prevention now, you can save yourself major repairs in the spring.

Cracks in Sidewalks

The cracks are an easy fix. For concrete sidewalks some of the supplies you’ll need include a stiff brush, concrete crack filler and a putty knife. You can find these items at any home improvement store. The crack filler is usually in a caulk-like tube, so make sure you have a caulking gun.

Clean out the cracks with a stiff brush. Rinse with a high pressure water hose, or if you have a compressor blow the area clean. If you are using water pressure, make sure to let the area dry thoroughly before filling with the concrete filler. Squeeze the concrete repair material into the crack and smooth with a putty knife. Please be sure to read all the directions ion the concrete repair material before beginning your project.

Expansion Joints in Sidewalks

Cracks are not the only things you should maintain on the sidewalk. Expansion joints (the spaces between the sections of sidewalk) will also need maintenance. When sidewalks are first laid, there is a felt-like material that goes in between the joints. This material breaks down after a few years so something needs to fill this area to protect it from freezing and thawing. The items you need for maintaining this area include foam window insulation and liquid tar (in a squeeze bottle).

Prep work for expansion joints is the same as for cracks, but the finishing is very different. Do not use concrete repair filler in this area. Liquid tar is the item of choice here. If the groove is very large or deep it can get expensive to fill it entirely with tar. The alternative is to use window insulating rolled foam. This material can be used as a back filler in the joint. It comes in many different diameters, so measure the width and depth of the groove so you’ll know what size to get.

The joints are easier to do than cracks. All you have to do is push the foam into the cleaned space and then cover it with tar. The foam and tar are flexible enough to take all that winter has to throw at it.

Shifting or Leaning Slabs

If you notice any leaning, upheaval or shifting of your sidewalk, it is time to call a contractor. They may need to mudjack your sidewalk to make it level again.

Driveways-Blacktop/Concrete

If you have blacktop, sealing is suggested at least every 2 to 3 years. Temperatures should be above 50 degrees to do this. Get all the grass overgrowth off the edges of the driveway. Sweep with a stiff brush and hose off any leftover dust. Scrub any grease or oil spots with a strong detergent and rinse again. Let it dry thoroughly. Apply a thin coat of sealer with a squeegee. Follow the manufacturer’s directions. Do not walk or drive on the area for at least 24 hours. It may look and feel dry, but resist the urge and wait the full 24 hours.

If your driveway is concrete, follow the same procedure as for the cracks in sidewalks.

Gravel Driveways

What about gravel driveways? The biggest problem with gravel is that most of it ends up in the lawn by spring. A remedy for that is to leave the first snowfall on the driveway and use your car to pack down the snow. The packed down snow will hold all that gravel in place. Now you can take care of the next snow fall by either blowing or plowing without throwing all the gravel into the lawn.

Annual tasks aren’t all that difficult, and doing them maintains the value of your property. Simple maintenance of sidewalks and driveways could save you costly repairs down the road.

Carbon Monoxide

Since things are starting to cool down and you may be thinking about starting that furnace up for the first time you might want to think about the silent and sometimes deadly killer. Carbon monoxide. It is colorless and odorless but at high levels it can kill you. It can be especially dangerous as you sleep since you’ll never notice the symptoms until it’s too late.

Carbon monoxide can be given off by anything that burns. From having a fire in your fireplace to your gas stove to your gas or oil furnace. If your appliances are working correctly or you’re using them correctly then there should be no issues. Idling cars in their garages is one of the major causes for carbon monoxide poisoning.  But there are a few effects that you should be on the look out for. Headaches, dizziness, nausea and mental confusion are a few symptoms. Fetuses, infants and the elderly are especially susceptible to the effects are carbon monoxide.

Over 400 deaths are reported each year due to carbon monoxide poisoning. The good news is that there are ways to help prevent and detect carbon monoxide.  Have your furnace and/or fireplace routinely checked and cleaned.  Make sure all flues are properly connected and cleaned. Also, having good ventilation in your home is crucial; having a tight home will only trap the “bad” air. There are also some Don’ts. Don’t start your car in the garage in the winter to warm up, even with the garage door open, the fumes still can quickly gather and even possibly enter your home. Don’t sleep in any room with an unvented fuel burning appliance.  Installing carbon monoxide detectors in the proper areas is very important. Follow the instruction manual very carefully. Place a carbon monoxide detector outside sleeping areas so the sound will wake; also place one on every level of your home. Do not place them too close to furnace or cooking appliance, normally not within 15 feet.

If you do feel like your suffering any of the effects of carbon monoxide poisoning, open all the doors and windows to your home, turn off all fuel burning appliances and get out to the fresh air. Call 911 or go to the emergency room and tell the doctors you suspect carbon monoxide poisoning; it can be confirmed through blood tests if soon after exposure.

                           Remember prevention is the key!