Attic Insulation

Properly insulating and air sealing your attic will help reduce your energy bills. Attics are often one of the easiest places in a house to insulate, especially if you'd like to add insulation.
Before insulating or deciding whether to add insulation to your attic, first see our information about adding insulation to an existing house or selecting insulation for new home construction if you haven't already.
Warning: if you think you have vermiculite insulation in your attic, there's a chance it could contain asbestos. Don't disturb it. Only insulation contractors certified to handle and remove asbestos should deal with vermiculite insulation.

Attic Insulation Techniques

Loose-fill or batt insulation is typically installed in an attic. Although installation costs may vary, loose-fill insulation is usually less expensive to install than batt insulation. When installed properly, loose-fill insulation also usually provides better coverage.
Before installing any type of insulation in your attic, follow these steps:

• Seal all attic-to-home air leaks. Most insulation does not stop airflow.
  
  • Duct exhaust fans to the outside. Use a tightly constructed box to cover fan housing on attic side. Seal around the duct where it exits the box. Seal the perimeter of the box to the drywall on attic side.
  • Cover openings—such as dropped ceilings, soffits, and bulkheads—into attic area with plywood and seal to the attic side of the ceiling.
  • Seal around chimney and framing with a high-temperature caulk or furnace cement.
  • At the tops of interior walls, use long-life caulk to seal the smaller gaps and holes. Use expanding foam or strips of rigid foam board insulation for the larger gaps.
• Install blocking (metal flashing) to maintain fire-safety clearance requirements (usually 3 inches) for heat-producing equipment found in an attic, such as flues, chimneys, exhaust fans, and light housings/fixtures unless the light fixtures are IC (insulation contact) rated. IC-rated lights are airtight and can be covered with insulation.
  
• Make sure insulation doesn't block soffit vents to allow for attic ventilation.
  
• Check the attic ceiling for water stains or marks. They indicate roof leaks or lack of ventilation. Make repairs before you insulate. Wet insulation is ineffective and can damage your home.

Also insulate and air seal your attic access if it's located in a conditioned part of the house.
You'll want to properly insulate and air seal any knee walls—vertical walls with attic space directly behind them—in your home as well.
Finally, if you're constructing a new home or remodeling, make sure any attic decking, which provides additional storage space or a platform for an HVAC unit or hot water tank, is raised above the ceiling joists to ensure proper insulation depth. The decking then should be installed securely to the top of the raised lumber after the insulation has been installed.

Information from the US Department of Energy

Helping the Process

There's a few things the seller's agent can do that would help the home inspection process along. When the buyer has decided to have a home inspection, the seller should:

1. Make the attic entry accessible. If the entry is in a closet with clothes hanging up, the seller should remove the clothes so when the inspector opens the attic entry, the insulation doesn't come falling down onto the sellers clothes. In most cases the inspector is not allowed to remove the clothes due to insurance restrictions. If there are clothes hanging in the closet, the inspector may not be able to inspect this important area and have to make arrangments to return. Returning may make it necessary for an additional charge. No one wants that.

2. If the electrical panel is hidden behind some storage or shelving, the seller should make this area accessible. Make room to get to the panel. Again, if this important portion of the inspection is not accessible the inspector may have to make a return trip at an additional charge.

3. If there are pets still in the home, most inspectors would appreciate it if these pets are put in a kennel or caged. Even home inspectors don't want to be bitten or just as bad, let the pet outside when they enter the home. If there are cats in the home, we suggest the sellers notify the inspector by leaving a note that there are cats in the home. This way the inspector can look for the cats and be certain the pets aren't accidentally let outside.

4. When there is an alarm on, the seller's agent should let the buyers agent know ahead of time prior to the inspection. Home inspectors don't mind it when there is an alarm, they just do not want to set it off without knowing the code to shut it off.

Winterize your home

So you've pulled your sweaters out of mothballs and found your mittens at the bottom of the coat closet. But what about your house -- is it prepared for the cold months ahead?

You'll be a lot less comfortable in the coming months if you haven't girded Home Sweet Home for Old Man Winter. With the help of several experts, we've boiled down your autumn to-do list to 10 easy tips:

1. Clean those gutters  

Once the leaves fall, remove them and other debris from your home's gutters -- by hand, by scraper or spatula, and finally by a good hose rinse -- so that winter's rain and melting snow can drain. Clogged drains can form ice dams, in which water backs up, freezes and causes water to seep into the house, the Insurance Information Institute says. 
As you're hosing out your gutters, look for leaks and misaligned pipes. Also, make sure the downspouts are carrying water away from the house's foundation, where it could cause flooding or other water damage.

"The rule of thumb is that water should be at least 10 feet away from the house," says Michael Broili, the director of the Well Home Program for the Phinney Neighborhood Association, a nationally recognized neighborhood group in Seattle.

2. Block those leaks

One of the best ways to winterize your home is to simply block obvious leaks around your house, both inside and out, experts say. The average American home has leaks that amount to a nine-square-foot hole in the wall, according to EarthWorks Group.

First, find the leaks: On a breezy day, walk around inside holding a lit incense stick to the most common drafty areas: recessed lighting, window and door frames, electrical outlets.

Then, buy door sweeps to close spaces under exterior doors, and caulk or apply tacky rope caulk to those drafty spots, says Danny Lipford, host of the nationally syndicated TV show "Today's Homeowner." Outlet gaskets can easily be installed in electrical outlets that share a home's outer walls, where cold air often enters.

Outside, seal leaks with weather-resistant caulk. For brick areas, use masonry sealer, which will better stand up to freezing and thawing. "Even if it's a small crack, it's worth sealing up," Lipford says. "It also discourages any insects from entering your home."

3. Insulate yourself

"Another thing that does cost a little money -- but boy, you do get the money back quick -- is adding insulation to the existing insulation in the attic," says Lipford. "Regardless of the climate conditions you live in, in the (U.S.) you need a minimum of 12 inches of insulation in your attic."

Don't clutter your brain with R-values or measuring tape, though. Here's Lipford's rule of thumb on whether you need to add insulation: "If you go into the attic and you can see the ceiling joists you know you don't have enough, because a ceiling joist is at most 10 or 11 inches."

A related tip: If you're layering insulation atop other insulation, don't use the kind that has "kraft face" finish (i.e., a paper backing). It acts as a vapor barrier, Lipford explains, and therefore can cause moisture problems in the insulation.

4. Check the furnace

First, turn your furnace on now, to make sure it's even working, before the coldest weather descends. A strong, odd, short-lasting smell is natural when firing up the furnace in the autumn; simply open windows to dissipate it. But if the smell lasts a long time, shut down the furnace and call a professional.

It's a good idea to have furnaces cleaned and tuned annually. Costs will often run about $100-$125. An inspector should do the following, among other things: Throughout the winter you should change the furnace filters regularly (check them monthly). A dirty filter impedes air flow, reduces efficiency and could even cause a fire in an extreme case. Toss out the dirty fiberglass filters; reusable electrostatic or electronic filters can be washed.

5. Get your ducts in a row

According to the U.S. Department of Energy, a home with central heating can lose up to 60% of its heated air before that air reaches the vents if ductwork is not well-connected and insulated, or if it must travel through unheated spaces. That's a huge amount of wasted money, not to mention a chilly house. (Check out this audit tool for other ideas on how to save on your energy bills this winter.) Ducts aren't always easy to see, but you can often find them exposed in the attic, the basement and crawlspaces. Repair places where pipes are pinched, which impedes flow of heated air to the house, and fix gaps with a metal-backed tape (duct tape actually doesn't stand up to the job over time). Ducts also should be vacuumed once every few years, to clean out the abundant dust, animal hair and other gunk that can gather in them and cause respiratory problems.

6. Face your windows

Now, of course, is the time to take down the window screens and put up storm windows, which provide an extra layer of protection and warmth for the home. Storm windows are particularly helpful if you have old, single-pane glass windows. But if you don't have storm windows, and your windows are leaky or drafty, "They need to be updated to a more efficient window," says Lipford. Of course, windows are pricey. Budget to replace them a few at a time, and in the meantime, buy a window insulator kit, Lipford and Broili recommend. Basically, the kit is plastic sheeting that's affixed to a window’s interior with double-stick tape. A hair dryer is then used to shrink-wrap the sheeting onto the window. (It can be removed in the spring.) "It's temporary and it's not pretty, but it's inexpensive (about $4 a window) and it's extremely effective," says Lipford.

7. Don't forget the chimney

Ideally, spring is the time to think about your chimney, because "chimney sweeps are going crazy right now, as you might have guessed," says Ashley Eldridge, director of education for the Chimney Safety Institute of America. That said, don't put off your chimney needs before using your fireplace, Eldridge advises. "A common myth is that a chimney needs to be swept every year," says Eldridge. Not true. But a chimney should at least be inspected before use each year, he adds. "I've seen tennis balls and ducks in chimneys," he says. Ask for a Level 1 inspection, in which the professional examines the readily accessible portions of the chimney, Eldridge says. "Most certified chimney sweeps include a Level 1 service with a sweep," he adds.

Woodstoves are a different beast, however, cautions Eldridge. They should be swept more than once a year. A general rule of thumb is that a cleaning should be performed for every ¼ inch of creosote, "anywhere that it's found." Why? "If it's ash, then it's primarily lye -- the same stuff that was once used to make soap, and it's very acidic." It can cause mortar and the metal damper to rot, Eldridge says. Another tip: Buy a protective cap for your chimney, with a screen, advises Eldridge. "It's probably the single easiest protection" because it keeps out foreign objects (birds, tennis balls) as well as rain that can mix with the ash and eat away at the fireplace's walls. He advises buying based on durability, not appearance. One other reminder: To keep out cold air, fireplace owners should keep their chimney's damper closed when the fireplace isn't in use. And for the same reason, woodstove owners should have glass doors on their stoves, and keep them closed when the stove isn't in use. Check out CSIA'S Web site for a list of certified chimney sweeps in your area.

8. Reverse that fan

"Reversing your ceiling fan is a small tip that people don't often think of," says Lipford. By reversing its direction from the summer operation, the fan will push warm air downward and force it to recirculate, keeping you more comfortable. (Here's how you know the fan is ready for winter: As you look up, the blades should be turning clockwise, says Lipford.).

9. Wrap those pipes

A burst pipe caused by a winter freeze is a nightmare. Prevent it before Jack Frost sets his grip: Before freezing nights hit, make certain that the water to your hose bibs is shut off inside your house (via a turnoff valve), and that the lines are drained, says Broili. In climes such as Portland, Ore., or Seattle, where freezing nights aren't commonplace, you can install Styrofoam cups with a screw attachment to help insulate spigots, says Broili. Next, go looking for other pipes that aren't insulated, or that pass through unheated spaces -- pipes that run through crawlspaces, basements or garages. Wrap them with pre-molded foam rubber sleeves or fiberglass insulation, available at hardware stores. If you're really worried about a pipe freezing, you can first wrap it with heating tape, which is basically an electrical cord that emits heat.

10. Finally, check those alarms

This is a great time to check the operation -- and change the batteries -- on your home's smoke detectors. Detectors should be replaced every 10 years, fire officials say. Test them -- older ones in particular -- with a small bit of actual smoke, and not just by pressing the "test" button. Check to see that your fire extinguisher is still where it should be, and still works. Also, invest in a carbon-monoxide detector; every home should have at least one.

Getting ready to buy your home

Buying a home requires a lot of preparation and research. It’s important to start off on the right foot because the time you initially put in with save you time down the road. Plus, going through the basic steps to get you ready for buying a home will help you decide if you’re truly ready for homeownership.
As a first-time home buyer, here are five basic steps you should take before you make an offer:

Get Pre-qualified

Nothing is more important than understanding your credit situation and getting pre-qualified with a reputable lender before you start your home search.  This also means calculating all of additional expenses besides a mortgage payment that come with owning a home.  For instance, if you’re looking at condos, you’ll want to take into consideration how the Home Owners Association (fees, etc.) will impact your monthly expenses.
Doing a little prep-work and knowing how much home you can afford will allow you to search for a house with confidence and avoid being disappointed by homes that are out of your price range.

Hire a Buyer’s Agent

Outside of getting pre-qualified, this is the single-most important thing a first-time home buyer can do.  A buyer’s agent is a real estate agent hired specifically to help a person interested in purchasing a home.  This agent will work for you and will always have your best interest in mind. Buyer’s agents will research a property and give you valuable information that the agent who is representing the seller is not allowed to provide.  This includes any public records showing what the current owner paid for the home, the last mortgage on record, comparable homes in the neighborhood and how long the property has really been on the market. A buyer’s agent can also give you a thorough explanation of the best way to approach a negotiation of the property. In addition, a good buyer’s agent will have a list of resources that will help you in the home buying process, including home inspectors, contractors and attorneys.
The best thing about hiring a buyer’s agent is that it often costs you nothing! Because of the agreement between the seller and the listing agent, compensation is offered through multiple listing services that encourage other agents to show the property.  The buyer’s agent only gets paid if they are the one who brings the buyer.

Know the Neighborhood

When searching for your first home it’s important to know and understand the neighborhood. Target an area and drive around at different times of the day or week to observe what’s going on. Often in the evening and on weekends you’ll get a better idea of what the activity level is for a specific neighborhood.
Don’t settle when you’re looking for your first home. While most buyers understand that they may only be in a home for a few years, the decisions you make now will have a huge impact when it comes time to sell the property.  Things like not having a garage or basement, or the proximity to commercial or major roads could create some obstacles when you try to sell the house in the future.

Have the Home Inspected

This is one thing you definitely don’t want to skimp on!  Choosing to do the inspection yourself or relying on your family member or friend who has owned a home before will most likely result in a greater cost than if you had hired a professional in the first place. By not hiring a full-time inspector who is a member of either the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI) or your state’s association of home inspectors, something will be missed and it could cost you thousands of dollars in the long run. Not only does a professional inspector provide peace of mind about what you’re buying, but can walk you through the process so you understand the inner-workings of a home and regular maintenance schedules.

What types of things do Home Inspectors find?

Great question. There are so many items that are inspected or checked by a home inspector. I know an AmeriSpec Home inspector checks over 400 items in every home we inspect. The items that seem to get a lot of attention are as follows.

1. Roof and roofing structure. Shingles aren't the only item checked during an inspection. If the inspector doesn't walk the roof (if it's not too steep) there's so many other items that can be missed. Like the flashing's. The flashings are what makes the rain water not seep into the main structure of the house. If they are gapping or not installed properly the roof could end up with some leaks, and that's a bad thing. There's also the venting stacks. Want to be sure the venting for the plumbing is proper otherwise there could be sewer gas coming back into the home. No a good thing. And the chimney, here's where you could end up with damages if there's some mortar deterioration or if the top part of the chimney (the Cap) isn't secure. Water can get down the chimney and cause all kinds of problems.

2. Windows. Here's where a good inspector earns his/her money. There are flashings around the windows and doors that need to be inspected. Not only can there be cold air infiltrating into the home, but water can sneak in and cause some trouble, like fungus or mold.

3. Electrical Issues. The panel isn't the only item that a home inspector inspects, but it's an important one. We look to be sure the wires all agree with the fuses or circuit breakers. Make sure there aren't too many wires to one fuse or breaker. We even look at the brand of the box to be certain the panel is one that appears to be safe. If it's a Federal Pacific Panel or a Zinsco, we should tell our client to have a licensed electrician inspect it for safety. We also check the electrical outlets for grounding and their polarity.

4. Plumbing. Most home inspectors will check all the plumbing facilities, like sinks, tubs, showers and toilets. There's plenty of leaking go on in some of those homes and we're there to find which one is leaking. We check the waste+ stacks for leaks, especially if the stacks are still cast iron. If we see a rust spot, we suggest a licensed plumber be called in. And we should be suggesting a sewer lateral by a competent plumber as well.

Okay, this should be all anybody can stand about home inspections. There will be more later after a little rest.

Any questions about these items or about any other home inspection question, the Jardine AmeriSpec Office would be glad to answer your calls and emails. Remember the number 314-308-6489. Thanks for reading!

Things sellers should know

When selling your home, you should consider what a home inspector will find when he or she is contracted by a buyer. What will the buyers home inspector be looking at, what types of issues will they find? At the Jardine AmeriSpec Office we suggest you have a professional inspector look at your property before a buyers inspector does his or her inspection.

1. How old is your roof? What issues will a home inspector find when they walk your roof?

2. Is your siding in good shape? Is there any damage that could cause water infiltration? If it's brick on the exterior do you have any broken or cracked bricks, is there any "spalling" of the brick or deterioration? Should you consider tuck pointing by a professional before you put your home up for sale? Is the trim around the windows and doors caulked properly and is there flashings installed to move the water away from the house?

3. Can you see the entire foundation? Are there any cracks in the foundation? Should you have a professional foundation company make any repairs?

4. Are your faucets operable? Are there any leaks from the spigots?

5. Do you have GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interupters) and are they operable? Do all the lights on the exterior work properly?

6. On the interior, do all your kitchen appliances work properly? Stove, oven, micro wave, refrigerator? Are there any leaks under any of the sinks or toilets?  All your faucets work properly? Are there GFCI recptacles installed in bathrooms, kitchen, basment, garage and exterior?

7. Interior walls and ceilings free of cracks or peeling drywall tape? Do all the windows work properly and do any of the windows show fogging or condensation if double paned? Is there at least one window in each room that can be used for egress? How about interior doors? Do they all open and close properly? No rubbing jams or stick when trying to open?

8. In the basement, are there any signs of water penetration? Any foundation cracks that could allow water to enter the basement? Has there been any signs of foundation movement? Bowing walls, tilting walls or other signs that would or could be problematic? Should you have a foundation specialist make any repairs prior to listing your home? Have you had a termite inspection in the last year to prove thre are no termites? Most professional termite companies will give free inspection if the property is not for sale or your not refinacning your loan.

9. Is your furnace and air conditioning in good shape? Do you know the ages? Have they been serviced by a professional HVAC contractor? Do you have documentation.

10. Have you had an electrican open your electrical panel and determine the safety of the wiring and look for double tappings or over fusing? Do you know if you have knob and tube wiring or a Federal Pacifici or Zinsco Panel?

11. Is the attic insulated and have good ventilation? Any wiring issues in the attic? Are there any cracked or cut joists or trusses? Do you know if there any stains on the decking? Any cracked decking?

These are just a few things you should know before listing your home. Some of the items could be deal breakers, especially if you are not aware of them. Keep in mind, information is powerful and if you know the issues about your home, you can have them "repaired" before the buyer has their inspection. Makes a much smoother process. And of things, as a seller, you want a smooth and worry free process.

We suggest to find a Certified home inspector you find an ASHI (American Society of Home Inspectors) at http://www.stlashi.org/