Wednesday, February 4, 2015

Winterizing Your Sidewalks and Driveways

As a homeowner, there will always be tasks that need to be done at least once a year. When was the last time you really looked at your sidewalk and driveway? Are there any cracks? Are there any weeds growing through those cracks? Winter moisture in the form of snow and rain can worsen existing cracks in pavement. With some prevention now, you can save yourself major repairs in the spring.
Cracks in Sidewalks
The cracks are an easy fix. For concrete sidewalks some of the supplies you’ll need include a stiff brush, concrete crack filler and a putty knife. You can find these items at any home improvement store. The crack filler is usually in a caulk-like tube, so make sure you have a caulking gun.
Clean out the cracks with a stiff brush. Rinse with a high pressure water hose, or if you have a compressor blow the area clean. If you are using water pressure, make sure to let the area dry thoroughly before filling with the concrete filler. Squeeze the concrete repair material into the crack and smooth with a putty knife. Please be sure to read all the directions ion the concrete repair material before beginning your project.
Expansion Joints in Sidewalks
Cracks are not the only things you should maintain on the sidewalk. Expansion joints (the spaces between the sections of sidewalk) will also need maintenance. When sidewalks are first laid, there is a felt-like material that goes in between the joints. This material breaks down after a few years so something needs to fill this area to protect it from freezing and thawing. The items you need for maintaining this area include foam window insulation and liquid tar (in a squeeze bottle).
Prep work for expansion joints is the same as for cracks, but the finishing is very different. Do not use concrete repair filler in this area. Liquid tar is the item of choice here. If the groove is very large or deep it can get expensive to fill it entirely with tar. The alternative is to use window insulating rolled foam. This material can be used as a back filler in the joint. It comes in many different diameters, so measure the width and depth of the groove so you’ll know what size to get.
The joints are easier to do than cracks. All you have to do is push the foam into the cleaned space and then cover it with tar. The foam and tar are flexible enough to take all that winter has to throw at it.
Shifting or Leaning Slabs
If you notice any leaning, upheaval or shifting of your sidewalk, it is time to call a contractor. They may need to mudjack your sidewalk to make it level again.
Driveways-Blacktop/Concrete
If you have blacktop, sealing is suggested at least every 2 to 3 years. Temperatures should be above 50 degrees to do this. Get all the grass overgrowth off the edges of the driveway. Sweep with a stiff brush and hose off any leftover dust. Scrub any grease or oil spots with a strong detergent and rinse again. Let it dry thoroughly. Apply a thin coat of sealer with a squeegee. Follow the manufacturer’s directions. Do not walk or drive on the area for at least 24 hours. It may look and feel dry, but resist the urge and wait the full 24 hours.
If your driveway is concrete, follow the same procedure as for the cracks in sidewalks.
Gravel Driveways
What about gravel driveways? The biggest problem with gravel is that most of it ends up in the lawn by spring. A remedy for that is to leave the first snowfall on the driveway and use your car to pack down the snow. The packed down snow will hold all that gravel in place. Now you can take care of the next snow fall by either blowing or plowing without throwing all the gravel into the lawn.
Annual tasks aren’t all that difficult, and doing them maintains the value of your property. Simple maintenance of sidewalks and driveways could save you costly repairs down the road.

Saturday, January 3, 2015

Carbon Monoxide

Since things are starting to cool down and you may be thinking about starting that furnace up for the first time you might want to think about the silent and sometimes deadly killer. Carbon monoxide. It is colorless and odorless but at high levels it can kill you. It can be especially dangerous as you sleep since you’ll never notice the symptoms until it’s too late.

Carbon monoxide can be given off by anything that burns. From having a fire in your fireplace to your gas stove to your gas or oil furnace. If your appliances are working correctly or you’re using them correctly then there should be no issues. Idling cars in their garages is one of the major causes for carbon monoxide poisoning.  But there are a few effects that you should be on the look out for. Headaches, dizziness, nausea and mental confusion are a few symptoms. Fetuses, infants and the elderly are especially susceptible to the effects are carbon monoxide.

Over 400 deaths are reported each year due to carbon monoxide poisoning. The good news is that there are ways to help prevent and detect carbon monoxide.  Have your furnace and/or fireplace routinely checked and cleaned.  Make sure all flues are properly connected and cleaned. Also, having good ventilation in your home is crucial; having a tight home will only trap the “bad” air. There are also some Don’ts. Don’t start your car in the garage in the winter to warm up, even with the garage door open, the fumes still can quickly gather and even possibly enter your home. Don’t sleep in any room with an unvented fuel burning appliance.  Installing carbon monoxide detectors in the proper areas is very important. Follow the instruction manual very carefully. Place a carbon monoxide detector outside sleeping areas so the sound will wake; also place one on every level of your home. Do not place them too close to furnace or cooking appliance, normally not within 15 feet.


If you do feel like your suffering any of the effects of carbon monoxide poisoning, open all the doors and windows to your home, turn off all fuel burning appliances and get out to the fresh air. Call 911 or go to the emergency room and tell the doctors you suspect carbon monoxide poisoning; it can be confirmed through blood tests if soon after exposure.

                           
Remember prevention is the key!

Wednesday, November 5, 2014

Water Heater Maintenance

Very few people know that in order to keep your water heater running properly and efficiently very simple maintenance procedures need to be performed. (These come with the instructions and are often overlooked.) 

As water is pumped into your water heater tank dirt, sediment and various minerals settle on the bottom. Depending on your water quality these extra "ingredients" can add up rather quickly robbing your water heater's efficiency and costing you in the long run. If left unchecked they can not only make your water heater work harder but also allow your tank to rust and slowly be eaten away until you need to replace the entire unit which is very costly yet easily preventable. And cheap to prevent! You just need a hose, bucket (optional) and gloves (optional too, but safer with.) 

We will show you how to perform a simple yearly draining of your water heater to keep it running smoothly.

First off, you need to know where your water heater is. This should be very simple. It should be located in your garage. 

Be careful! You are going to be dealing with gas/electricity and very hot water and steam.

This should be simple enough. Look around the tank itself and read any warnings and labels. If you can't determine one sure fire indication is if there is a pilot light odds are it's gas. Mine is gas operated. 

Note: Read the instruction on the tank for turning off the gas and or electricity. Don't just do it unless you know what you are doing.

The water shut off valve is located on the top of the water heater. It typically looks like the circular water valves used for front and back yards. 

The pressure release valve is located on the top as well. It should have labeling near it. There is piping that leads out of the water heater and near the drain. Make sure it is not obstructed. This is very important. 

The water drain is located on the bottom. It is usually a simple spout that has threads so that a hose can be attached. (These threads will be needed for later.)

Now that you know where your water heater is and what it operates with (gas or electric) you are ready to perform it's yearly maintenance. Be sure to turn off the gas to the water heater (if gas) or shut off the circuit breaker if electric. (Again, read instructions carefully.) I did this the night before. This saves the energy it takes to warm the water that you will soon be draining. No need to heat water you won't be using. 

Get a hose. 

Get a bucket. 

Get some gloves to protect you from possible hot steam and or water. 

Turn off the water to the water heater and attach the hose to the water drain.

Next you will want to turn on the water drain to release the water from the water heater tank. 

The water will drain from the hose and then slowly stop. This is because the pressure release valve needs to be opened to allow air into the tank. A vacuum has been formed and no additional water will be drained from the tank until the vacuum is opened up and removed. 

Don't worry if the water is a little dirty as first. That is from all the dirt and sediment that has built up. This is the reason why you are draining it. Get all that stuff out! 

Wait 10 - 30 minutes to allow all the water to drain.

Turn off the water drain and remove the hose. 

Take the bucket and place below the water drain. 

With pressure valve still open turn on the water to the water tank and then turn on the water drain to allow the rest of the sediment to be flushed out. Allow a few gallons worth of water to drain. Be sure to check the water draining out and make sure it is clear. If it is then you are set to refill the tank.

Make sure the water drain at the base of the tank is turned off. 

Close the pressure release valve. 

Turn on the water to allow the tank to be filled. 

Once the tank is full you can turn the gas or circuit breaker back on. Caution: Do not turn the heating unit on until the tank is full. If the tank is not full it can cause heating damage to the unit. 

Sit back, relax, and enjoy your nice hot water that will be flowing and heating you more efficiently. You got a full year to wait and perform this maintenance again. 

If you want you can drain a few gallons a month from your tank especially if you live an an area with a lot of sediment in your water. You don't need the hose. Just use the bucket for this month to month maintenance. 

If you experience any leaks in the water valves or pressure valves be sure that they are tightened correctly. There is a packing nut just below the knob that can be tightened if needed. If the leaking persists then there is a good chance they haven't been used enough and need to be replaced. So be sure to perform this routine maintenance to keep the valve working properly as well!




All information for this about water heater maintenance blog was taken from theoneandonlymrP


Tuesday, October 28, 2014

Sump Pumps

Sump Pumps – Don’t Make These 3 Mistakes

There is an old adage about basements: “There are those that are wet, and those that are going to be wet.”

Translation: Your basement WILL get wet eventually. There is a difference between wet and under water though.

One way of preventing the latter is a sump pump. Depending on a variety of things: where you live, your area’s water table level, the age of your home, you may or may not have a sump pump. Here in the St. Louis area sump pumps are becoming pretty standard operating procedure.
Your sump pump pit, if designed properly, collects all the excess water surrounding your house.
Some water will always sit in this pit, but when the water level gets to a designed threshold, your sump pump springs into action, and pumps the water out away from your house, keeping your basement dry!
Luckily, I don’t have a lot of first hand experience with sump pumps, as I’ve never had one fail on me (cross my fingers, knock on wood, open an umbrella indoors… wait, what?), but I want to outline how critical they can be with a sidebar story.

SUMP PUMPS MISTAKE #1 : LOST POWER!

Sump pumps run on this fancy form of power called electricity! 
Usually, when your sump pump needs to be running is during heavy rainfalls. Often that rainfall is accompanied by other weather phenomenon, namely lightning and wind.
Lightning and wind like to knock out power and when that power is the same power running your sump pump, what do you think happens?
Spoiler Alert – Your sump pump stops working when you need it to be working the most. How can you avoid this?

SUMP PUMPS BATTERY BACKUP

Battery backup pumps kick on when your primary source of power is killed. They typically run on a 12-volt deep cycle marine battery. An electric charger keeps the backup fully charged and ready to spring into action. They cost between $300-$500 and can be installed relatively easily, or so I’m told. A couple common sense tips…
– Don’t install the battery on the floor. Use a plastic case and/or build a stand or wall mount. It’d be a shame if power went out, your sump overflowed and the overflow fried your backup battery, wouldn’t it?
– Make sure the outlet for your primary system is mounted near your system and well above floor level. Don’t run extension cords from a sump pump motor to an outlet across the basement. Same rationale as common sense tip #1.

SUMP PUMPS MISTAKE #2: NOT TESTING YOUR SYSTEM

I’d say there are 3 levels of need for sump pumps.
Level 1 – Homes where drainage is poor and sump pumps run constantly, even with little to no rain. In these homes, it is absolutely critical to keep your sump pumps well maintained. Testing is probably not needed because it’s going off every couple of days. You should keep a spare pump in your home for quick replacement in the event of a failure.
Level 2 is probably the ideally designed system in which more often than not, your sump pump isn’t “normally” running. Your sump pump will kick on during heavy rains for a brief period and right back off. These will require occasional testing to ensure proper performance.
Level 3 is thankfully where I reside – I’ve never heard my pump go off even during our week long Forest Gump rainfall marathon. I suppose I can thank the city of St. Charles for excellent civil engineering (or dumb luck). If you are like me though, you’ll want to test your system at LEAST annually to make sure your pump is still working for the rare instance you really need it.
How to test your system
Simple! Pour water in! Get yourself a 5 gallon bucket of water, and slowly (about the rate rain water might enter) pour the water in until the float triggers your pump to activate. At this point you are hopefully watching the water level drop, and successfully shut back off when your float drops back below the shutoff level. If that’s not what happens, troubleshoot and repair/replace as needed.

SUMP PUMP MISTAKE #3 : BAD DISCHARGE PIPE

All sump pumps have a discharge pipe, very similar to this one.Had a  buddy at work who walked into his basement to find his floating floor… floating.
The root cause – his discharge pipe.
It leaves his house, makes a right angle into the ground, then another right angle to travel away from his house. The right angle below ground had broken. He thinks this was due to tree roots and has now resolved the problem but it was a difficult one to diagnose as you can imagine.
His pump, meanwhile, is in quite a predicament, trying to combat both the natural water flow, plus the backflow of everything its already pumped.Ultimately it couldn’t keep up. Basement flooding ensued.
Luckily his basement wasn’t fully finished so casualties were minimal. 
Moral of the story – inspect your discharge pipes as well. Most people have a simple piece of PVC sticking out the side of their house. Some have additional tubes running away from their home. Others like my buddy, have underground lines. Whatever your design, ensure they are working properly.

Friday, December 27, 2013

Dishwasher Care

How to Clean Your Dishwasher and Remove Odor

  1. Using a small brush (old toothbrushes work well) dipped in hot soapy water, go around the door of the dishwasher taking care to get into the grooves and crevices of the rubber seal. Most likely, you'll be surprised at the debris that has built up, especially at the bottom of the door and around the hinges on the side.
  2. Scrub well. You may need to use a soft abrasive cleanser, such as Soft Scrub® to remove the dried and baked on grime.
  3. Using a household sponge dipped in hot soapy water, wipe off the dirt and grime that you stirred up with the brush. Go over the inside of the door and scrub any obvious areas inside the dishwasher that may have stuck-on food, such as out of reach corners.
  4. Pull the bottom rack out and examine the drain area. Wipe around it to be sure there are no hard chunks that can plug the drain, cause damage to the pump or scratch dishes. You'd be surprised at what dishwasher repairmen find - bones, crab shells, chips of glass, and even small pieces of gravel!
  5. Using a clean wet sponge or dishrag, wipe the cleaning solution from the gasket and the door.
  6. Then place a dishwasher-safe cup filled with plain white vinegar on the top rack of the dishwasher. Using the hottest water available, run the dishwasher through a cycle - except for the cup of vinegar, the dishwasher needs to be empty.
  7. The vinegar will help to wash away the loose, greasy grime, sanitizes, and helps remove the musty odor.
  8. If you don't have any white vinegar, you can substitute a packet of unsweetened lemonade mix in the soap cup. Don't experiment with other flavors as they could stain the inside of your dishwasher.
  9. Baking soda is also effective at freshening and brightening your dishwasher. Just sprinkle a cupful around the bottom of the tub and run it through a short but complete cycle using the hottest water. Baking soda is also helpful in removing stains.

Dishwashing Tips

  1. It is probably not necessary to pre-wash your dishes like some people do, but it is important to scrape off leftover food from plates and bowls. Rinse and then load into the dishwasher.
  2. Use common sense when loading your dishes. Put table ware in the appropriate compartment; placing sharp knives with their tips down.
  3. Don't jam dishes in - give adequate space between plates and bowls to allow the water to circulate freely; likewise, be careful that a large bowl or lid does not block the water spray from reaching the inside of other dishes and drink ware.
  4. Use the hottest water available for washing your dishes in the dish washer. This is necessary for dried-on food removal, for properly dissolving the dish-washing detergent you use, and for sterilizing germs.
  5. Major detergent and dishwasher manufacturers recommend a water temperature of at least 130° to work effectively.
  6. Many areas have fairly hard water which affects the cleaning properties of detergents. Fill both detergent cups and use a rinsing agent if you need to.

Dishwasher Problems and How To Avoid Them

vinegarIf your glassware has a cloudy appearance, soak it in white vinegar for five minutes. If this causes the cloudiness to disappear, most likely it is caused by a hard water deposit and you may need to use more detergent. If, however, the cloudiness remains, it may indicate "etching" - which is a permanent condition. You can avoid further damage to the glassware by using less detergent and not using a pre-washing cycle.
If you are inclined to pre-wash your dishes before you put them in the dishwasher, consider this. Dishwasher detergent NEEDS a certain amount of grease and dirt in order to do its job. Otherwise, it actually foams up during the cycle which is not good for your dishwasher.
Dishwashers operate with a minimal amount of water. All that is really needed is enough to barely reach and cover the heating element to maintain proper water temperature. You should check the water level periodically to be sure it reaches the requirement.
Let the unit fill, wait until the wash cycle begins, then open the door and look to be sure the water is covering the element.
Perform a thorough, routine cleaning of your dishwasher, such as described above in "How To Clean Your Dishwasher and Remove Odor".
Solid Jet Dry Rinse AgentIf you do not have a water softener and want to avoid spotting on your glassware, use a rinse aid such as Jet-Dry®. I like the solid type rather than liquid because it's easier to see when you need to add more. The liquid dispenser is hidden from view and may be empty for several cycles before you realize it.
Solid rinse aids are visible because they are contained in a little basket on the rack. They work during the entire wash and rinse cycle. They work best when placed in the front left corner, upper rack. If you have a water softener, you should not need to use a rinse aid.

Wednesday, December 11, 2013

Arc Fault Interupter


Almost no one outside of electrician and home inspectors even know about Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters. They have become mandatory since 2008 by the SEC and by now we should all know what they are.

AFCIs are the latest and greatest in circuit protection.  They are designed to protect your house wiring against a variety of faults, and help prevent fires.

Arcing faults can be caused by damaged, or improperly installed wiring. These faults can get very hot, and are a common source of house fires.  Driving a nail or screw into a wire, rodents, loose wire nuts,or even age can cause a wire to fail.

These breakers will not reset, until the fault goes away, or the wire is repaired.
If it keeps tripping, call a qualified electrician to locate the problem. I made the breaker bold because the issue is in the electrical panel by way of the outlets in bedrooms.


You can test an Arc Fault breaker by hitting the button. It should pop open the breaker. Then you turn it all the way off, and then back on again.
If you find an Arc fault breaker that is tripped in your house, first unplug everything om that circuit, then try to reset it.  If it resets, then it could be a faulty cord or device that is plugged into it.  If it still trips then call an electrician, because you may have a serious problem.

Monday, November 11, 2013

Home Maintenance Schedule and Checklist

Like a car, your home needs regular maintenance and occasional tune-ups to stay in tip-top shape. Fortunately, you can complete most of the following tasks yourself by following this season-by-season schedule of indoor and outdoor maintenance.

Spring Home Maintenance

In spring, focus on freshening up your home and protecting your property against the season's strong winds and rains.

Outdoor Tasks:
  • Clean gutters and downspouts. Learn how to maintain your gutters.
  • Inspect roof and chimney for cracks and damage.
  • Touch up peeling or damaged paint. Watch our video for ideas on troubleshooting exterior paint problems.
  • Wash all windows, inside and out.
  • Install screens on windows and doors.
  • Clean outdoor furniture and air out cushions.
  • Service your lawn mower.
  • Fertilize your lawn.
Indoor Tasks:
  • Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors when you set clocks forward.
  • If your basement has a sump pump, test it by dumping a large bucket of water into the basin of the sump pump. This should activate the sump pump. If it does not switch on or if it's not pumping water, it may need to be serviced by a professional. Also, check for and remove any debris and make sure there are no leaks.
  • Wash and change seasonal bedding.
  • Dust blinds and vacuum curtains throughout your house.
  • Clean kitchen and bathroom cabinets and throw away outdated food, medicine and cosmetics.

Summer Home Maintenance

In fall, prepare your home and yard for cooler temperatures, falling leaves and more hours spent indoors.

Outdoor Tasks:
  • Clean gutters and downspouts. Get information on maintaining your gutters.
  • Inspect roof and chimney for cracks and damage.
  • Rake leaves and shred to use as mulch or dispose of them based on local guidelines.
  • Close or install storm windows.
  • Remove hoses from spigots and drain and store indoors, coiled and flat.
  • Store outdoor furniture and cushions.
  • Test snow blower and have it professionally serviced if necessary. 
  • Rake Leaves
Indoor Tasks:
  • Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors when you set clocks back in the fall. See our carbon monoxide detector buying guide. Learn more about detecting and preventing carbon monoxide.
  • Check windows and doors for weather-tightness and install weather stripping where it's needed. Check out our tips on weather stripping windows and doors.
  • Have furnace professionally inspected.
  • If needed, set traps for rodents.
  • Dust blinds and vacuum curtains throughout your house.
  • Clean kitchen and bathroom cabinets and throw away outdated food, medicine and cosmetics

Rake Leaves

Fall Home Maintenance

In fall, prepare your home and yard for cooler temperatures, falling leaves and more hours spent indoors.

Outdoor Tasks:
  • Clean gutters and downspouts. Get information on maintaining your gutters.
  • Inspect roof and chimney for cracks and damage.
  • Rake leaves and shred to use as mulch or dispose of them based on local guidelines.
  • Close or install storm windows.
  • Remove hoses from spigots and drain and store indoors, coiled and flat.
  • Store outdoor furniture and cushions.
  • Test snow blower and have it professionally serviced if necessary. 
  • Rake Leaves
Indoor Tasks:
  • Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors when you set clocks back in the fall. See our carbon monoxide detector buying guide. Learn more about detecting and preventing carbon monoxide.
  • Check windows and doors for weather-tightness and install weather stripping where it's needed. Check out our tips on weather stripping windows and doors.
  • Have furnace professionally inspected.
  • If needed, set traps for rodents.
  • Dust blinds and vacuum curtains throughout your house.
  • Clean kitchen and bathroom cabinets and throw away outdated food, medicine and cosmetics

Winter Home Maintenance

In winter, enjoy energy-efficient warmth and the fruits of your home-maintenance labors. Use this time of the year to thoroughly clean and care for your home's interior while taking a few precautionary measures on the outside.
Outdoor Tasks:
  • Walk around your home's exterior and check the crawl space vents located at the foundation. Close any that are open.
  • Protect your central air conditioning unit with a cover, and remove and store window air conditioners.
  • Clean and store garden tools.
  • Move snow shovels and snow blowers to a convenient spot.  
Indoor Tasks:
  • Change or clean furnace filters. Consult manufacturer instructions for your furnace to determine how frequently the filters should be replaced. See our tips on choosing a home air filter and information on cleaning and replacing HVAC filters.
  • Clean kitchen appliances inside and out, including refrigerator coils.
  • Maintain clean drains by adding one-half-cup baking soda followed by one-half-cup white vinegar. After 10 minutes, flush with boiling water.

Good advice from Lowe's