Low Water Pressure

Low water pressure is a common complaint that we hear often, especially in older homes.   Water pressure is a subjective subject, good water pressure for one may not be good pressure for someone else.  We will try to clear up a few misconceptions on water pressure as it relates to the residential plumbing system and the correlation between pressure and flow. 

Low water flow to fixtures in the home can be caused by numerous factors.  Often times the low pressure at a faucet is caused by low water flow throughout the homes plumbing supply system.  If there isn’t a large enough supply of water to the supply system there is no way to get adequate pressure to the individual faucets or fixtures.  For example, a 3/4″ water supply pipe that is feeding four faucets at the same time will not produce the same amount of pressure at the faucet as a 1 1/4″ supply pipe connected to the same plumbing system.

The first things we need to look at when diagnosing low flow are the water pressure into the home and the size of the main water supply pipe into the home.  Plumbing code in most areas state that the water pressure into the home should be a stabilized 40 to 80 PSI (Pounds per Square Inch).

With all faucets and fixtures turned off, the water pressure should be recorded.  If the pressure is within the normal range, this indicates that the water pressure into the home is adequate.  The problem is mostly likely a flow problem and not a pressure problem.

If the pressure is below the normal range, you have isolated the problem to a water pressure problem.  There are numerous things that could cause this low water pressure.

Examples of low water pressure cause:

• Low pressure from utility
• Leak in a water supply pipe
• Partially closed shutoff valve
• Mineral buildup in pipes

One common misconception is that increasing the water pressure into the home will drastically increase the water flow at the faucets.  While this can sometimes help, it can be at the expense of the components in the plumbing system.  Pressure over 80 PSI can cause numerous problems with faucets, water hammer, pipe joints etc.

If the water pressure is good and you still have low water pressure to individual water faucets the problem could be harder to repair.  There are a few reasons you could be having low water flow to the faucets:

Examples of reasons for low water flow:

• Diameter of water main too small
• Water supply pipes clogged with minerals
• Leak in supply pipes
• Shutoff valve partially closed for that faucet

If these issues are found we suggest contacting a licensed plumber here in the St. Louis Area. 

To contact us, please call us at 314-308-6489

or email at hjardine@amerispec.net

www.thejardineoffice.com 

Dryer Vent Safety

We know that Dryer Vent safety is important, but do you know why? The following information should give you some insight as to why this innocent appliance.        The How’s and Whys of a Dryer Fire    A clothes dryer works by forcing hot air through a turning drum. Wet clothes placed in the drum are then dried by the moving hot air. It is possible for a full load of wet clothes to contain as much as one and a half gallons of water. Lint is created from the clothes as the water is removed and the clothes dry. While much of the lint is trapped by the dryer's filter, lint also is carried through the venting system, together with moist air.  The accumulation of lint, both in the dryer and in the dryer vent, reduces the airflow and creates a highly flammable fuel source. In addition to the accumulation of lint, blockage in dryer exhaust vents also can occur from the nests of small birds and animals or from bends in the venting system itself. A compromised vent will not exhaust properly to the outside. Overheating may result. If enough heat is produced to ignite the lint itself or nearby combustible items, such as the clothes in the dryer or combustibles left nearby, the engineered safety mechanisms are compromised and fire ensues. Leading Factors Contributing to Residential Building Dryer Fires Proper maintenance for clothes dryers involves removing the lint from the traps, vents, and surrounding areas of the dryer. Not unexpectedly, the leading factor contributing to ignition for dryer fires is operation deficiencies - specifically "failure to clean." Failure to clean accounts for 70% of dryer fire operational deficiency contributing factors. Other leading factors contributing to dryer fires include "mechanical failure," "electrical failure," and "misuse of material or product." A clothes dryer that has to work harder to evacuate lint and moisture can trigger enough heat to cause some dryer components to malfunction and can sometimes produce sparks or even flames. The overheating can sometimes produce enough heat to ignite lint or other nearby combustibles.    Clothes Dryer Venting Systems For optimal venting the exhaust should vent directly outside the house. Flexible foil vents are not the best choice for venting clothes dryers and really not recommended. Flexible vents can sag, allowing lint to build up and catch on fire if it comes in contact with a sufficient amount of heat. If a fire starts beneath the dryer when the motor overheats, then the drafts from the dryer can pull that fire up into the duct and venting allowing a house fire to develop. Using smooth sided metal vents is much safer and is recommended. Conclusion In most cases, clothes dryer fires can be prevented. "Failure to clean" is the number one factor contributing to clothes dryer fires, followed by mechanical and electrical failure. Clogged dryer vents occurring from lint buildup may make the dryer operate incorrectly and raise the temperature of the dryer machinery high enough to ignite lint or nearby combustibles. The exhaust vent should be as short as possible and have limited bends to allow sufficient airflow. Improper items placed in the dryer, such as plastic, foam, or other synthetic materials also can increase the risk of fire. Make sure to follow the recommended safety tips for operating clothes dryers safely. The photo below is a clogged dryer vent just waiting to be a hazard.    In particular, by following installation guidelines and performing regular inspections on dryer vents, consumers can protect themselves further from clothes dryer fires. Depending on the frequency of use, how long the vent is, or the age and type of dryer used, dryer vents need inspection on average every 2 to 3 years. If you do not feel comfortable cleaning or inspecting the dryer vent yourself, you can call a duct cleaning service.

Just a thought

Did you ever wonder about Federal Pacific Electrical Panels? Ever wonder why some inspectors recommend their replacement? We thought we would share some information regarding the FPE so you will have a better understanding of the problems associated with these types of Electrical Panels.

Federal Pacific Electrical Stab-Lok Panels were used from the 50's to the early 80's. After years of use, electricians and most home inspectors found FPE panels failed to protect the homeowners and their families. They appeared to work as intended, but if one over current or short circuit occurred it was found they could become fire hazards and overheat.

There was a class action lawsuit and a New Jersey State Court found that the FPE Company had " violated the Consumer Fraud Act because FPE knowingly and purposely distributed circuit breakers which were not tested to meet UL standards...." An expert who investigated the potential hazards of these panels stated that under UL 489 test conditions, the FPE panels failed trip to at a much higher rate than other panels.

The whole point having an electrical panel is for the circuit breaker or fuse to trip and and stop the current. This may not happen with a Federal Pacific Panel.

When The Jardine AmeriSpec Office professionals are inspecting a home with an FPE, we always recommend a licensed electrician review the panel for safety. For more information click here and go to our website.

Attic Insulation

Properly insulating and air sealing your attic will help reduce your energy bills. Attics are often one of the easiest places in a house to insulate, especially if you'd like to add insulation.
Before insulating or deciding whether to add insulation to your attic, first see our information about adding insulation to an existing house or selecting insulation for new home construction if you haven't already.
Warning: if you think you have vermiculite insulation in your attic, there's a chance it could contain asbestos. Don't disturb it. Only insulation contractors certified to handle and remove asbestos should deal with vermiculite insulation.

Attic Insulation Techniques

Loose-fill or batt insulation is typically installed in an attic. Although installation costs may vary, loose-fill insulation is usually less expensive to install than batt insulation. When installed properly, loose-fill insulation also usually provides better coverage.
Before installing any type of insulation in your attic, follow these steps:

• Seal all attic-to-home air leaks. Most insulation does not stop airflow.
  
  • Duct exhaust fans to the outside. Use a tightly constructed box to cover fan housing on attic side. Seal around the duct where it exits the box. Seal the perimeter of the box to the drywall on attic side.
  • Cover openings—such as dropped ceilings, soffits, and bulkheads—into attic area with plywood and seal to the attic side of the ceiling.
  • Seal around chimney and framing with a high-temperature caulk or furnace cement.
  • At the tops of interior walls, use long-life caulk to seal the smaller gaps and holes. Use expanding foam or strips of rigid foam board insulation for the larger gaps.
• Install blocking (metal flashing) to maintain fire-safety clearance requirements (usually 3 inches) for heat-producing equipment found in an attic, such as flues, chimneys, exhaust fans, and light housings/fixtures unless the light fixtures are IC (insulation contact) rated. IC-rated lights are airtight and can be covered with insulation.
  
• Make sure insulation doesn't block soffit vents to allow for attic ventilation.
  
• Check the attic ceiling for water stains or marks. They indicate roof leaks or lack of ventilation. Make repairs before you insulate. Wet insulation is ineffective and can damage your home.

Also insulate and air seal your attic access if it's located in a conditioned part of the house.
You'll want to properly insulate and air seal any knee walls—vertical walls with attic space directly behind them—in your home as well.
Finally, if you're constructing a new home or remodeling, make sure any attic decking, which provides additional storage space or a platform for an HVAC unit or hot water tank, is raised above the ceiling joists to ensure proper insulation depth. The decking then should be installed securely to the top of the raised lumber after the insulation has been installed.

Information from the US Department of Energy

Helping the Process

There's a few things the seller's agent can do that would help the home inspection process along. When the buyer has decided to have a home inspection, the seller should:

1. Make the attic entry accessible. If the entry is in a closet with clothes hanging up, the seller should remove the clothes so when the inspector opens the attic entry, the insulation doesn't come falling down onto the sellers clothes. In most cases the inspector is not allowed to remove the clothes due to insurance restrictions. If there are clothes hanging in the closet, the inspector may not be able to inspect this important area and have to make arrangments to return. Returning may make it necessary for an additional charge. No one wants that.

2. If the electrical panel is hidden behind some storage or shelving, the seller should make this area accessible. Make room to get to the panel. Again, if this important portion of the inspection is not accessible the inspector may have to make a return trip at an additional charge.

3. If there are pets still in the home, most inspectors would appreciate it if these pets are put in a kennel or caged. Even home inspectors don't want to be bitten or just as bad, let the pet outside when they enter the home. If there are cats in the home, we suggest the sellers notify the inspector by leaving a note that there are cats in the home. This way the inspector can look for the cats and be certain the pets aren't accidentally let outside.

4. When there is an alarm on, the seller's agent should let the buyers agent know ahead of time prior to the inspection. Home inspectors don't mind it when there is an alarm, they just do not want to set it off without knowing the code to shut it off.

Winterize your home

So you've pulled your sweaters out of mothballs and found your mittens at the bottom of the coat closet. But what about your house -- is it prepared for the cold months ahead?

You'll be a lot less comfortable in the coming months if you haven't girded Home Sweet Home for Old Man Winter. With the help of several experts, we've boiled down your autumn to-do list to 10 easy tips:

1. Clean those gutters  

Once the leaves fall, remove them and other debris from your home's gutters -- by hand, by scraper or spatula, and finally by a good hose rinse -- so that winter's rain and melting snow can drain. Clogged drains can form ice dams, in which water backs up, freezes and causes water to seep into the house, the Insurance Information Institute says. 
As you're hosing out your gutters, look for leaks and misaligned pipes. Also, make sure the downspouts are carrying water away from the house's foundation, where it could cause flooding or other water damage.

"The rule of thumb is that water should be at least 10 feet away from the house," says Michael Broili, the director of the Well Home Program for the Phinney Neighborhood Association, a nationally recognized neighborhood group in Seattle.

2. Block those leaks

One of the best ways to winterize your home is to simply block obvious leaks around your house, both inside and out, experts say. The average American home has leaks that amount to a nine-square-foot hole in the wall, according to EarthWorks Group.

First, find the leaks: On a breezy day, walk around inside holding a lit incense stick to the most common drafty areas: recessed lighting, window and door frames, electrical outlets.

Then, buy door sweeps to close spaces under exterior doors, and caulk or apply tacky rope caulk to those drafty spots, says Danny Lipford, host of the nationally syndicated TV show "Today's Homeowner." Outlet gaskets can easily be installed in electrical outlets that share a home's outer walls, where cold air often enters.

Outside, seal leaks with weather-resistant caulk. For brick areas, use masonry sealer, which will better stand up to freezing and thawing. "Even if it's a small crack, it's worth sealing up," Lipford says. "It also discourages any insects from entering your home."

3. Insulate yourself

"Another thing that does cost a little money -- but boy, you do get the money back quick -- is adding insulation to the existing insulation in the attic," says Lipford. "Regardless of the climate conditions you live in, in the (U.S.) you need a minimum of 12 inches of insulation in your attic."

Don't clutter your brain with R-values or measuring tape, though. Here's Lipford's rule of thumb on whether you need to add insulation: "If you go into the attic and you can see the ceiling joists you know you don't have enough, because a ceiling joist is at most 10 or 11 inches."

A related tip: If you're layering insulation atop other insulation, don't use the kind that has "kraft face" finish (i.e., a paper backing). It acts as a vapor barrier, Lipford explains, and therefore can cause moisture problems in the insulation.

4. Check the furnace

First, turn your furnace on now, to make sure it's even working, before the coldest weather descends. A strong, odd, short-lasting smell is natural when firing up the furnace in the autumn; simply open windows to dissipate it. But if the smell lasts a long time, shut down the furnace and call a professional.

It's a good idea to have furnaces cleaned and tuned annually. Costs will often run about $100-$125. An inspector should do the following, among other things: Throughout the winter you should change the furnace filters regularly (check them monthly). A dirty filter impedes air flow, reduces efficiency and could even cause a fire in an extreme case. Toss out the dirty fiberglass filters; reusable electrostatic or electronic filters can be washed.

5. Get your ducts in a row

According to the U.S. Department of Energy, a home with central heating can lose up to 60% of its heated air before that air reaches the vents if ductwork is not well-connected and insulated, or if it must travel through unheated spaces. That's a huge amount of wasted money, not to mention a chilly house. (Check out this audit tool for other ideas on how to save on your energy bills this winter.) Ducts aren't always easy to see, but you can often find them exposed in the attic, the basement and crawlspaces. Repair places where pipes are pinched, which impedes flow of heated air to the house, and fix gaps with a metal-backed tape (duct tape actually doesn't stand up to the job over time). Ducts also should be vacuumed once every few years, to clean out the abundant dust, animal hair and other gunk that can gather in them and cause respiratory problems.

6. Face your windows

Now, of course, is the time to take down the window screens and put up storm windows, which provide an extra layer of protection and warmth for the home. Storm windows are particularly helpful if you have old, single-pane glass windows. But if you don't have storm windows, and your windows are leaky or drafty, "They need to be updated to a more efficient window," says Lipford. Of course, windows are pricey. Budget to replace them a few at a time, and in the meantime, buy a window insulator kit, Lipford and Broili recommend. Basically, the kit is plastic sheeting that's affixed to a window’s interior with double-stick tape. A hair dryer is then used to shrink-wrap the sheeting onto the window. (It can be removed in the spring.) "It's temporary and it's not pretty, but it's inexpensive (about $4 a window) and it's extremely effective," says Lipford.

7. Don't forget the chimney

Ideally, spring is the time to think about your chimney, because "chimney sweeps are going crazy right now, as you might have guessed," says Ashley Eldridge, director of education for the Chimney Safety Institute of America. That said, don't put off your chimney needs before using your fireplace, Eldridge advises. "A common myth is that a chimney needs to be swept every year," says Eldridge. Not true. But a chimney should at least be inspected before use each year, he adds. "I've seen tennis balls and ducks in chimneys," he says. Ask for a Level 1 inspection, in which the professional examines the readily accessible portions of the chimney, Eldridge says. "Most certified chimney sweeps include a Level 1 service with a sweep," he adds.

Woodstoves are a different beast, however, cautions Eldridge. They should be swept more than once a year. A general rule of thumb is that a cleaning should be performed for every ¼ inch of creosote, "anywhere that it's found." Why? "If it's ash, then it's primarily lye -- the same stuff that was once used to make soap, and it's very acidic." It can cause mortar and the metal damper to rot, Eldridge says. Another tip: Buy a protective cap for your chimney, with a screen, advises Eldridge. "It's probably the single easiest protection" because it keeps out foreign objects (birds, tennis balls) as well as rain that can mix with the ash and eat away at the fireplace's walls. He advises buying based on durability, not appearance. One other reminder: To keep out cold air, fireplace owners should keep their chimney's damper closed when the fireplace isn't in use. And for the same reason, woodstove owners should have glass doors on their stoves, and keep them closed when the stove isn't in use. Check out CSIA'S Web site for a list of certified chimney sweeps in your area.

8. Reverse that fan

"Reversing your ceiling fan is a small tip that people don't often think of," says Lipford. By reversing its direction from the summer operation, the fan will push warm air downward and force it to recirculate, keeping you more comfortable. (Here's how you know the fan is ready for winter: As you look up, the blades should be turning clockwise, says Lipford.).

9. Wrap those pipes

A burst pipe caused by a winter freeze is a nightmare. Prevent it before Jack Frost sets his grip: Before freezing nights hit, make certain that the water to your hose bibs is shut off inside your house (via a turnoff valve), and that the lines are drained, says Broili. In climes such as Portland, Ore., or Seattle, where freezing nights aren't commonplace, you can install Styrofoam cups with a screw attachment to help insulate spigots, says Broili. Next, go looking for other pipes that aren't insulated, or that pass through unheated spaces -- pipes that run through crawlspaces, basements or garages. Wrap them with pre-molded foam rubber sleeves or fiberglass insulation, available at hardware stores. If you're really worried about a pipe freezing, you can first wrap it with heating tape, which is basically an electrical cord that emits heat.

10. Finally, check those alarms

This is a great time to check the operation -- and change the batteries -- on your home's smoke detectors. Detectors should be replaced every 10 years, fire officials say. Test them -- older ones in particular -- with a small bit of actual smoke, and not just by pressing the "test" button. Check to see that your fire extinguisher is still where it should be, and still works. Also, invest in a carbon-monoxide detector; every home should have at least one.

Getting ready to buy your home

Buying a home requires a lot of preparation and research. It’s important to start off on the right foot because the time you initially put in with save you time down the road. Plus, going through the basic steps to get you ready for buying a home will help you decide if you’re truly ready for homeownership.
As a first-time home buyer, here are five basic steps you should take before you make an offer:

Get Pre-qualified

Nothing is more important than understanding your credit situation and getting pre-qualified with a reputable lender before you start your home search.  This also means calculating all of additional expenses besides a mortgage payment that come with owning a home.  For instance, if you’re looking at condos, you’ll want to take into consideration how the Home Owners Association (fees, etc.) will impact your monthly expenses.
Doing a little prep-work and knowing how much home you can afford will allow you to search for a house with confidence and avoid being disappointed by homes that are out of your price range.

Hire a Buyer’s Agent

Outside of getting pre-qualified, this is the single-most important thing a first-time home buyer can do.  A buyer’s agent is a real estate agent hired specifically to help a person interested in purchasing a home.  This agent will work for you and will always have your best interest in mind. Buyer’s agents will research a property and give you valuable information that the agent who is representing the seller is not allowed to provide.  This includes any public records showing what the current owner paid for the home, the last mortgage on record, comparable homes in the neighborhood and how long the property has really been on the market. A buyer’s agent can also give you a thorough explanation of the best way to approach a negotiation of the property. In addition, a good buyer’s agent will have a list of resources that will help you in the home buying process, including home inspectors, contractors and attorneys.
The best thing about hiring a buyer’s agent is that it often costs you nothing! Because of the agreement between the seller and the listing agent, compensation is offered through multiple listing services that encourage other agents to show the property.  The buyer’s agent only gets paid if they are the one who brings the buyer.

Know the Neighborhood

When searching for your first home it’s important to know and understand the neighborhood. Target an area and drive around at different times of the day or week to observe what’s going on. Often in the evening and on weekends you’ll get a better idea of what the activity level is for a specific neighborhood.
Don’t settle when you’re looking for your first home. While most buyers understand that they may only be in a home for a few years, the decisions you make now will have a huge impact when it comes time to sell the property.  Things like not having a garage or basement, or the proximity to commercial or major roads could create some obstacles when you try to sell the house in the future.

Have the Home Inspected

This is one thing you definitely don’t want to skimp on!  Choosing to do the inspection yourself or relying on your family member or friend who has owned a home before will most likely result in a greater cost than if you had hired a professional in the first place. By not hiring a full-time inspector who is a member of either the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI) or your state’s association of home inspectors, something will be missed and it could cost you thousands of dollars in the long run. Not only does a professional inspector provide peace of mind about what you’re buying, but can walk you through the process so you understand the inner-workings of a home and regular maintenance schedules.